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Baluchari Sari

c.1855 (Made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A woven silk sari with red warp and red weft throughout. The red field is diapered with 'butis' comprising of rows of peacocks in alternate white and yellow with green and black bands on the tail. Both 'pars' (outer borders) and 'anchala' (end) have 'buttis' in stylized flower patterns in green and yellow. The inner borders of red 'anchala' (end) have motifs depicting a European couple seated facing each other in a horse-drawn carriage with a driver holding a whip. The carriage carries a 'mayur-dhvaja' (peacock flag) - a symbol appeared on a chariot in the mythology. The entire motif is repeated to form horizontal and vertical border processions, defined by another border system of repeating rosettes. In the centre of the section there is a 'butti' of 'naksha' (pattern) known as 'kalka' (paisley). The colour scheme of 'anchal' is purple, blue, yellow and white. This type of silk brocade sari is known as 'Baluchar Buttidar' sari.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Woman's wrapped garment (sari), red silk with patterning in yellow, white and black, pallu (decorative end) design of Europeans in a horse-drawn carriage, Bahadarpur, West Bengal, c.1855
Physical description
A woven silk sari with red warp and red weft throughout. The red field is diapered with 'butis' comprising of rows of peacocks in alternate white and yellow with green and black bands on the tail. Both 'pars' (outer borders) and 'anchala' (end) have 'buttis' in stylized flower patterns in green and yellow. The inner borders of red 'anchala' (end) have motifs depicting a European couple seated facing each other in a horse-drawn carriage with a driver holding a whip. The carriage carries a 'mayur-dhvaja' (peacock flag) - a symbol appeared on a chariot in the mythology. The entire motif is repeated to form horizontal and vertical border processions, defined by another border system of repeating rosettes. In the centre of the section there is a 'butti' of 'naksha' (pattern) known as 'kalka' (paisley). The colour scheme of 'anchal' is purple, blue, yellow and white. This type of silk brocade sari is known as 'Baluchar Buttidar' sari.
Dimensions
  • Length: 479cm
  • Width: 110cm
  • Weight: 3.72kg (Note: Weight on roller)
Gallery label
(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
BALUCHAR SARI

Baluchar saris are unique to West Bengal. The end to be shown (pallu) often uses a repeated pattern of human figures, hand-woven on a draw-loom. The mechanical Jacquard loom later replaced the draw-loom, but collectors prize the tiny imperfections of hand-woven Baluchar saris.

Silk (plain weave with extra wefts)
Bahadurpur, Murshidabad, West Bengal, about 1855
V&A: 6102 (IS)
Object history
Shown at the Paris Exhibition of 1855. Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. Probably slip book entry 2990: 'Womans Garments Scarf / Saree / Balachoor / 55 / Silk with Animals and Figures Embroidered'
Production
Bahadurpur, near Baluchar in Murshidabad District in modern West Bengal.
Bibliographic references
  • Mehta, Rustam J., Masterpieces of Indian Textiles Hand Spun - Hand Woven - Traditional, Bombay: D.B. Taraporevala Sons & Co. Private Ltd. 1970, pp.11-13.
  • Crill, Rosemary, Arts of Asia, vol. 45, no. 5, September - October 2015, "The Fabric of India" Exhibition, p.70, pl. 6.
  • Arts of Bengal : the heritage of Bangladesh and eastern India : an exhibition organized by the Whitechapel Art Gallery in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum : 9 November-30 December 1979, Whitechapel Art Gallery ..., 12 January-17 February 1980, Manchester City Art Gallery ... . [London]: Whitechapel Art Gallery, [1979] Number: 085488047X (pbk.) : p.68
Other number
2990 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
6102(IS)

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Record createdApril 8, 2005
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