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Baluchari Sari

c.1855 (made)
Place of origin

A woven silk sari which has red warp and red weft for the 'anchal' (end) but dark blue or purple weft for the 'zami' (field). The purple 'zami' is diapered with 'butis', placed in diagonal rows, alternately coloured in yellow, red, white and green. Both 'pars' (outer borders) and 'anchal' have 'butis' in stylized flower patterns in red surrounded by white decorations. The inner borders of the red 'anchal' (end) have motifs depicting a ruler on a horseback, with two attendants, one bearing a 'pankha' or fan and the other a 'chatra' or umbrella. This motif is repeated to form horizontal and vertical border processions, defined by another border system of repeating rosettes. In the centre of the section ('anchal') there are two 'butis' of 'naksha' (pattern) known as 'kalka' (paisley), both being decorated with rosettes. This type of silk brocade sari is known as 'Baluchar Buttidar' sari.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Woman's wrapped garment (sari), woven silk brocade, Bahadurpur, West Bengal, c.1855; Textiles; Clothing; Women's Clothes
Physical description
A woven silk sari which has red warp and red weft for the 'anchal' (end) but dark blue or purple weft for the 'zami' (field). The purple 'zami' is diapered with 'butis', placed in diagonal rows, alternately coloured in yellow, red, white and green. Both 'pars' (outer borders) and 'anchal' have 'butis' in stylized flower patterns in red surrounded by white decorations. The inner borders of the red 'anchal' (end) have motifs depicting a ruler on a horseback, with two attendants, one bearing a 'pankha' or fan and the other a 'chatra' or umbrella. This motif is repeated to form horizontal and vertical border processions, defined by another border system of repeating rosettes. In the centre of the section ('anchal') there are two 'butis' of 'naksha' (pattern) known as 'kalka' (paisley), both being decorated with rosettes. This type of silk brocade sari is known as 'Baluchar Buttidar' sari.
Dimensions
  • Width: 110cm
  • Length: 479cm
  • Weight: 3.58kg (Note: Weight on roller)
Object history
Shown at the Paris Exhibition of 1855. Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. 1880 Register Entry: [ROOM 8. Case 44.] '0786. SCARF. Purple shot silk, with coloured border. 2,991'. Slip book entry 2991: 'Woman's Garment Scarf / Saree / Belachoor / 55 / Silk decorated with Animals and figures'
Production
Bahadurpur, near Baluchar in Murshidabad District in modern West Bengal
Bibliographic reference
Arts of Bengal : the heritage of Bangladesh and eastern India : an exhibition organized by the Whitechapel Art Gallery in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum : 9 November-30 December 1979, Whitechapel Art Gallery ..., 12 January-17 February 1980, Manchester City Art Gallery ... . [London]: Whitechapel Art Gallery, [1979] Number: 085488047X (pbk.) : p.68 Mehta, Rustam J., Masterpieces of Indian Textiles Hand Spun - Hand Woven - Traditional, Bombay: D.B. Taraporevala Sons & Co. Private Ltd. 1970, pp.11-13.
Other number
2991 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
0786(IS)

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Record createdApril 1, 2005
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