Man's doublet, 1620-25, English; Leather embroidered with black silk

Man’s doublet of leather with the suede side out. It has a 3⅜-inch (8.5 cm) standing collar, 2⅝-inch (6.6 cm) deep shoulder wings, curving 2 piece sleeves with 8 laps below the waist. The waistline is above the natural level at the back and sides, curving to a low point at the centre front. The doublet is embroidered all over in a design of small flowers and leaves arranged in panels running the length of the garment. The embroidery is worked in raised satin stitch, French knots, couching and stem stitch with black silk twist. Belly pieces of baleen stitched between linen reinforce the fronts. There are 9 worked buttonholes on each sleeve, 30 on the left front and 3 on the left edge of the collar. None of the buttons remain. A lacing band of linen covered with carnation pink silk, in the waist seam on the inside bears 46 worked eyelets.

Originally the doublet was lined with carnation pink silk taffeta but it has been relined later with brown silk.

Given by Lady Spickernell

Given by Lady Spickernell in 1937 and said to have belonged originally to the Cotton Family of Etwall Hall in Derbyshire.

This leather doublet of 1620–1625 is embroidered with silk. The compact design of stylised floral and leaf shapes incorporates raised satin stitch, French knots, couching and stem stitch. Black silk twist has been embroidered over understitching in brown linen for a raised effect. The use of leather for a doublet usually indicates an informal garment for outdoor wear, for example hunting or travelling. The very fine embroidery and fashionable style of this example, however implies that it was worn by a member of the aristocracy. A high waistline, close-fitting sleeves and the size of the waist tabs are characteristic of the period.

T.146-1937