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Hat

1955-1960 (made)
Artist/Maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga (designer)
Place of origin
Paris (made)

Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) had set up in business there in 1937 in partnership with the hat designer Vladzio d'Attainville. At its height, the business had four dress-making, four tailoring and two millinery workshops.

Hats were made bespoke to complete couture clients' outfits. The etiquette of the period dictated that hats be worn on all formal occasions, even when going out for a meal in a restaurant or to a performance at the theatre. Elaborate hats such as this example would have been worn to cocktail parties or to dinner.

Gloria Guinness, to whom this hat belonged, commented: 'hats must be made on your head. A ready-made hat will not be you! While I am sitting for a dress, I sit ten minutes longer, and Monsieur Balenciaga works on a hat.'


Object details

Categories
Hats & Headwear
Fashion
Womenswear
Accessories
Object type
Hat
Materials and techniques
Sheared ostrich feathers
Ostrich Feather
Brief description
Hat with ostrich feathers, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955-1960.
Physical description
Cap of black sheared ostrich feathers trimmed with two pompoms. Inside there is an attached comb.
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'BALENCIAGA, 10 Avenue George V, Paris' (Label)
Gallery label
  • ‘Balenciaga’s hats are an integral part of his fashion,’ reported the French fashion review Jardin des modes in 1961. They ensure ‘that volumes are balanced and the silhouette is perfectly finished off.’ Fairly conventional ensembles were often paired with a striking hat which lifted the whole look and made it appear more avant-garde. The client could buy the whole ensemble or leave the hat if it was too daring. The designs for hats were as fiercely protected as those for dresses. The police commissioner stamped the official sketches of the hats to protect them from being copied. Hat with black ostrich feathers Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955–60 Given by Mrs Loel Guinness V&A: T.60-1974(12/05/2017)
  • Hats Hats were regarded as the finishing touch to an outfit. A wide choice was available, from large picture hats to tiny, feathered creations that perched on the head, secured only with a hat pin. [34 words] 1. Yellow and black feathers Paulette (Paulette Marchand, 1900-84) Paris 1950s Worn by Mrs Opal Holt, and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark V&A: T.151-1982 2. Horsehair hat trimmed with fabric rosebuds Simone Mirman London 1953 Worn by Doris Langley Moore V&A: T.113-1980 3. Pink velvet Aage Thaarup (1906-87) London 1950s Given by Mrs Blair Cook V&A: T.255-1985 4. Black ostrich feather Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) Paris About 1955 Given by Mrs Loel Guinness V&A: T.60-1974 4. Yellow straw Jacques Heim (1899-1967) 1950s Given by Mrs Vivienne Lawrie V&A: T.370-1996(22/09/2007)
Credit line
Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Object history
Worn and given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Historical context
Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912 - 1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century.

Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. Her only child, Countess Dolores von Fürstenberg -Herdringen (born in 1936) married her stepbrother Patrick Guinness.

She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Associations
Guinness
Beaton
Summary
Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) had set up in business there in 1937 in partnership with the hat designer Vladzio d'Attainville. At its height, the business had four dress-making, four tailoring and two millinery workshops.

Hats were made bespoke to complete couture clients' outfits. The etiquette of the period dictated that hats be worn on all formal occasions, even when going out for a meal in a restaurant or to a performance at the theatre. Elaborate hats such as this example would have been worn to cocktail parties or to dinner.

Gloria Guinness, to whom this hat belonged, commented: 'hats must be made on your head. A ready-made hat will not be you! While I am sitting for a dress, I sit ten minutes longer, and Monsieur Balenciaga works on a hat.'
Bibliographic references
  • Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 284
  • Time magazine, January 26 1962
  • Hommage à Balenciaga. Lyon : Musée Historique des Tissus, 1985
Collection
Textiles and Fashion Collection
Accession number
T.60-1974

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Record createdMarch 14, 2005
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O110173/hat-cristóbal-balenciaga/
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