Evening Outfit

Summer 1967 (made)
Evening Outfit thumbnail 1
Evening Outfit thumbnail 2
+9
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

This ensemble is a good example of the work of the Spanish couturier Balenciaga (active in Paris 1937-68) in the 1960s when he actively fostered his interest in innovative textiles, simplifying the cut and construction of his clothes to make the most of the textiles. From his early days in Paris, Balenciaga's fascination with surface texture and pattern led him to patronise the important Parisian embroidery firm of Lesage. He was amongst the first couturiers to showcase some of Lesage's plastic creations: in this case, the disks in graduated shades of pink are made of melanex and shimmer as the wearer moves. Pink was ever present in the designer's oeuvre, in many variations from 'baby' pink to 'shocking' pink, but not within the same garment. Although the Baroness Rothschild, one of the couturier's most faithful customers, chose trousers to go with the coat, the coat had been presented in Balenciaga's show worn with a skirt that skimmed the knee.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Coat
  • Trousers
  • Shoe
  • Shoe
Materials and Techniques
Applied sequins (cellulose acetate), mother-of-pearl beads and poult taffeta
Brief Description
ensemble, F, 1967, French; Balenciaga. Shaded pink sequins, satin belt, embroidery by Lesage.



ensemble, F, 1967, French; Balenciaga. Pink poult taffeta,



evening ensemble, F, 1967 , French; Vivier, Roger. Transparent plastic



evening ensemble, F, 1967, French; Vivier, Roger. Transparent plastic
Physical Description
T.38-1974 - The coat is entirely covered with cellulose acetate sequin feather shapes in white and graduated shades of pink, on a ground of pear shaped sequins and mother-of-pearl beads. It is three-quarter length, straight cut with a hook fastening at the round neck. The sleeves are three-quarter length.



T.38A-1974 - The trousers of pink poult taffeta are tapered wit a side zip fastening.



T.38B-1974 - The shoes (Vivier) of transparent PVC trimmed with pink PVC and white leather; they have chisel toes and low heels.
Dimensions
  • Height: 12.5cm
  • Diameter: 25cm
  • Weight: 0.1kg
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and Inscriptions
  • Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris (Label, black on white machine woven)
  • 102505 (Printed on back of label)
Gallery Label
LAYERS OF CRAFTSMANSHIP To create this precisely gradated design, the embroiderer has built up layers of beading on a piece of silk organza dip-dyed pink. The coat was constructed first. Then the coloured stitching was added (visible on the back), then white pearls (in a seemingly haphazard ‘vermicelli’ design), and then teardrop and pink feather-shaped sequins. Finally large pearls were added and Swarovski crystals. The nearby video shows embroiderers recreating the beading at Lesage today. Evening coat Silk organza, with embroidery and beading by Lesage Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1967 V&A: T.38-1974 (27/05/2017-07/02/2018)
Credit line
Worn and given by Baroness Philippe de Rothschild
Object history
Worn and given by Baroness Philippe de Rothschild.



American fashion designer, writer and socialite, Pauline Fairfax Potter (1908-1976) married Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1954. She was named on the International Best Dressed Hall of Fame in 1969.



The National Portrait Gallery contains many photographs of Baroness de Rothschild taken by her friend, Cecil Beaton.
Production
Atelier: Maria
Association
Summary
This ensemble is a good example of the work of the Spanish couturier Balenciaga (active in Paris 1937-68) in the 1960s when he actively fostered his interest in innovative textiles, simplifying the cut and construction of his clothes to make the most of the textiles. From his early days in Paris, Balenciaga's fascination with surface texture and pattern led him to patronise the important Parisian embroidery firm of Lesage. He was amongst the first couturiers to showcase some of Lesage's plastic creations: in this case, the disks in graduated shades of pink are made of melanex and shimmer as the wearer moves. Pink was ever present in the designer's oeuvre, in many variations from 'baby' pink to 'shocking' pink, but not within the same garment. Although the Baroness Rothschild, one of the couturier's most faithful customers, chose trousers to go with the coat, the coat had been presented in Balenciaga's show worn with a skirt that skimmed the knee.
Bibliographic Reference
Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971
Other Number
Number 81 - Model number
Collection
Accession Number
T.38 to C-1974

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record createdMarch 7, 2005
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