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Not currently on display at the V&A

Dress

Dress
1757 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

This skirt was collected by Thomas Sandwith, British Consul-General in Crete from 1870 to 1885, and given to the Museum by his granddaughter. It is signed in embroidered stitches by its maker, Maria Papadopoula, and dated 1757.

The top pleated edge is intended to be worn not around the waist but higher, under the arms, held in place by shoulder straps. It is constructed from five loom-widths of a mixed cotton and linen. The opening down the middle of the central width would have allowed room for it to be put on, and also facilitated breast-feeding.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Linen and cotton embroidered with silk
Brief Description
Linen skirt dress embroidered in silk, made by Maria Papadopoula, Crete, Greece, 1757
Physical Description
Linen skirt dress with a floral border embroidered in blue silk. The name of the embroiderer 'Maria Papadopoula' and the date '1757' are included in the border. A tuck has been put into the garment to shorten it, so it is now skirt length. The shoulder straps are still attached and the bust is gathered. In Cretan feather, fishbone, satin, chain, back, double running and whipped stitches and French knots. Frieze of alternating vases of flowers. Made up of five loom widths of linen and cotton
Dimensions
  • Height: 107cm
  • Width: 180cm
  • Length: 34.75in
  • Length: 90.8cm
  • Width: 22.75in
  • Width: 57.6cm
  • Hem circumference: 137in
  • Hem circumference: 347.9cm
Marks and Inscriptions
'1757' and 'Maria Papadopoula' [in Greek letters] (Embroidered in blue silk along the border)
Gallery Label
EMBROIDERED SKIRT Dated 1757 The top pleated edge of this skirt is intended to be worn not around the waist but higher, under the arms, held in place by shoulder straps. It is constructed from five loom-widths of a mixed cotton and linen. The opening down the middle of the central width would have allowed room for it to be put on, and also facilitated breast-feeding. Linen and cotton embroidered with silk Signed Maria Papadopoula and dated 1757 Crete Collected by Thomas Sandwith, British Consul-General in Crete from 1870 to 1885, and given by his granddaughter Miss P Boys-Smith. Museum no. T.97-1967(2007)
Credit line
Given by Miss P. Boys-Smith
Summary
This skirt was collected by Thomas Sandwith, British Consul-General in Crete from 1870 to 1885, and given to the Museum by his granddaughter. It is signed in embroidered stitches by its maker, Maria Papadopoula, and dated 1757.



The top pleated edge is intended to be worn not around the waist but higher, under the arms, held in place by shoulder straps. It is constructed from five loom-widths of a mixed cotton and linen. The opening down the middle of the central width would have allowed room for it to be put on, and also facilitated breast-feeding.
Bibliographic References
  • Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation. Ptychoseis=Folds+Pleats: Drapery From Ancient Greek Dress to 21st Century Fashion. Athens : Hellenic Culture Organisation S.A., 2004.
  • The Studio, A Book of Old Embroidery, 1921, p.62
  • Wace, A.J.B, William Matthew Trevor Lawrence, Catalogue of a Collection of Old Embroideries of the Greek Islands and Turkey, London: Burlington Fine Arts Club, 1914.
  • Ioannou-Yannara, Tatiana, Alexandra Doumas, Xenia Politou, Petros Ballidis, Mouseio Benakē, Greek Embroidery 17th-19th century: Works of Art from the Collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, Athens: Angeliki Hatzimihali Foundation 2006
Collection
Accession Number
T.97-1967

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record createdOctober 27, 2004
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