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Waistcoat - Cracow

Cracow

  • Object:

    Waistcoat

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1913 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Fry, Roger Eliot, born 1866 - died 1934 (designer)
    Omega Workshops (designed for)
    A.H. Lee & Sons (manufacturer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Jacquard-woven and block-printed wool and linen

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs Joy Hedger

  • Museum number:

    CIRC.1-1963

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

The Omega Workshops were founded in 1913 by the designer and painter Roger Fry (1866-1934). He brought together a group of artists to design furniture, pottery, glass, textiles and entire schemes of interior decoration. Their radically abstract style, typified by this textile, was far ahead of its time and was influenced by developments in contemporary painting.

In keeping with the painting tradition, Fry believed that designs should not be too mechanical and should show evidence of the artist's hand. Achieving such effects on a jaquard loom which was programmed to create absolutely identical repeat patterns would have been impossible. Some irregularity is created in this case by painting or printing parts of the fabric after weaving. 'Cracow' is the only weave-patterned textile associated with the workshops, apart from carpets. It was an upholstery fabric, but in this case Joy Brown, the Omega's seamstress, used it to make an item of 'artistic' dress.

Physical description

Waistcoat made from a Jacquard-woven woollen and linen furnishing fabric block-printed with an abstract pattern.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1913 (made)

Artist/maker

Fry, Roger Eliot, born 1866 - died 1934 (designer)
Omega Workshops (designed for)
A.H. Lee & Sons (manufacturer)

Materials and Techniques

Jacquard-woven and block-printed wool and linen

Dimensions

Height: 46 cm, Width: 46 cm, Depth: 6 cm

Historical context note

The point paper design for this 'Cracow' (design no. 478), 1914 is in the Williamson Art Gallery & Museum, Birkenhead. It is pencil and ink on paper.

Descriptive line

Waistcoat 'Cracow' of Jacquard-woven and block-printed wool and linen, designed by Roger Fry for Omega Workshops, fabric made by A.H. Lee & Sons, England, 1913

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Beyond Bloomsbury. Designs of the Omega Workshops 1913-19, The Courtauld Gallery, London, 2009, p. 130, cat. 41.

Production Note

Attribution note: Woven in width of 54". Price was 15/6d per yard.

Materials

Wool; Linen

Techniques

Weaving; Printing; Sewing

Categories

Clothing; Textiles; Fashion; Day wear; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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