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Bead

ca. 1520-1530 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This ivory bead is from a chaplet or rosary and is considered to be either French or South Netherlandish from about 1520-1530.

On one side is the bust of a man wearing a flat hat and an open jacket and on the other the bust of a woman whose headdress is fastened under her chin by a linen band passing over the top.

A rosary, in the Metropolitan Museum, New York (Pierpont Morgan Collection), has six beads similar in style, one almost identical; they are each mounted in a metal frame. Other examples are in the Collection Cottreau, the Louvre, the Musée de Cluny, and elsewhere. A very similar example is in the Wernher Collection, Luton Hoo (Inv. No. 860).

In the Late Middle Ages the chaplet was a vital and commonplace aid to keeping count of the repetition of prayers for both rich and poor. Often hung from the belt by a ring, it usually consisted of ten ‘ave’ (Hail Mary) beads with a larger ‘paternoster’ (Our Father) bead at the beginning or end and a terminal Crucifix. Chaplet beads were made in many materials, from humble plain wood to precious metals and ivory. The popularity of the rosary – the fullest form of repeated prayers – gave rise to the establishment of confraternities devoted to its use in the late fifteenth century, so that by the sixteenth century the production of intricate and costly chaplets was widespread.
Chaplets often ended not with a cross but with a terminal pendant, and it is these larger beads which are usually the grandest. Most of them are connected with the notion of the memento mori, a constant reflection that human life is transient. The most common type of memento mori bead is that with conjoined heads: the skull, representing Death, is always present, and is either backed with a single bust or a pair of heads, male and female. The depiction of the skull often allowed the carver’s imagination full rein, with toads, worms and lizards crawling in and out of the mouth and eye sockets.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Carved elephant ivory
Brief description
Bead from a chaplet, ivory, France or South Netherlands, ca. 1520-1530
Physical description
Carved ivory bead from a chaplet or rosary pierced vertically for suspension; on one side the bust in profile of a young man wearing a flat hat and open jacket over a fine pleated skirt; on the other the bust in profile of a young woman whose headdress is fastened under her chin by a linen band passing over the top of the former and by a fillet. Both busts emerge from a leafy cup and are set against a cusped background and the bases partially cupped by enfolding foliage.
Dimensions
  • Height: 5.5cm
Object history
Purchased in 1854 (for 7s); according to Longhurst it was acquired in London, but this has not been confirmed by Museum records.
Historical context
A rosary, in the Metropolitan Museum, New York (Pierpont Morgan Collection), has six beads similar in style, one almost identical; they are each mounted in a metal frame. Other examples are in the Collection Cottreau, the Louvre, the Musée de Cluny, and elsewhere. A very similar example is in the Wernher Collection, Luton Hoo (Inv. No. 860).
Subjects depicted
Summary
This ivory bead is from a chaplet or rosary and is considered to be either French or South Netherlandish from about 1520-1530.

On one side is the bust of a man wearing a flat hat and an open jacket and on the other the bust of a woman whose headdress is fastened under her chin by a linen band passing over the top.

A rosary, in the Metropolitan Museum, New York (Pierpont Morgan Collection), has six beads similar in style, one almost identical; they are each mounted in a metal frame. Other examples are in the Collection Cottreau, the Louvre, the Musée de Cluny, and elsewhere. A very similar example is in the Wernher Collection, Luton Hoo (Inv. No. 860).

In the Late Middle Ages the chaplet was a vital and commonplace aid to keeping count of the repetition of prayers for both rich and poor. Often hung from the belt by a ring, it usually consisted of ten ‘ave’ (Hail Mary) beads with a larger ‘paternoster’ (Our Father) bead at the beginning or end and a terminal Crucifix. Chaplet beads were made in many materials, from humble plain wood to precious metals and ivory. The popularity of the rosary – the fullest form of repeated prayers – gave rise to the establishment of confraternities devoted to its use in the late fifteenth century, so that by the sixteenth century the production of intricate and costly chaplets was widespread.
Chaplets often ended not with a cross but with a terminal pendant, and it is these larger beads which are usually the grandest. Most of them are connected with the notion of the memento mori, a constant reflection that human life is transient. The most common type of memento mori bead is that with conjoined heads: the skull, representing Death, is always present, and is either backed with a single bust or a pair of heads, male and female. The depiction of the skull often allowed the carver’s imagination full rein, with toads, worms and lizards crawling in and out of the mouth and eye sockets.
Bibliographic references
  • Williamson, Paul: Medieval Ivory Carvings in the Wernher Collection. Apollo. 2002, CLV/483, pp.22-23, figs 14-15
  • Maskell, Alfred. Ivories. London : Methuen & Co., [1905], p. 270
  • Parkes Weber, F: op.cit., p. 717
  • Koechlin, M: I, pp. 448-449
  • Inventory of Art Objects Acquired in the Year 1854. In: Inventory of the Objects in the Art Division of the Museum at South Kensington, Arranged According to the Dates of their Acquisition. Vol I. London: Printed by George E. Eyre and William Spottiswoode for H.M.S.O., 1868, p. 15
  • Williamson, Paul and Davies, Glyn, Medieval Ivory Carvings, 1200-1550, (in 2 parts), V&A Publishing, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2014 part 1, p. 474
  • Maskell, W., A Description of the Ivories Ancient and Medieval in the South Kensington Museum, London, 1872 p. 2
  • Longhurst, Margaret H., Catalogue of Carvings in Ivory. Part II. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1929 p. 70, pl. LXV
  • Williamson, Paul and Davies, Glyn, Medieval Ivory Carvings, 1200-1550, (in 2 parts), V&A Publishing, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 2014, part 1, p. 474, cat. no. 164
Collection
Accession number
362-1854

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Record createdAugust 24, 2004
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