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Kerchief

1630-1650 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Most surviving handkerchiefs from the 1600s are very decorative and obviously only meant for show. This is a rare example of one meant for practical use. A linen kerchief was an essential part of the seventeenth century wardrobe. Women wore them for modesty, to fill in a low-necked bodice or waistcoat.

In the days before disposable paper tissues, a linen handkerchief was an essential accessory for men and women. This example measures approximately 69 cm x 67 cm and could have been used for either purpose.

Very few historical garments of plain linen survive. When no longer wearable, anything made of linen was sold to a rag merchant and recycled into writing paper.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen, handsewn with linen thread and silk thread
Brief description
M or F, linen, British 1630-1650
Physical description
A square of linen fabric hemmed with handsewing in linen thread on all sides and embroidered with 'C.' in red silk thread in one corner
Dimensions
  • Approx. length: 68.7cm
  • Approx. width: 65.7cm
Marks and inscriptions
C. (hand embroidered in red silk thread in one corner)
Object history
This kerchief was acquired from the Chaffyn Grove family, via Kerry Taylor Auctions in association with Sotheby's. In 1686, John Grove married Mary Chaffyn, inheriting Zeals House from her, and their descendants took the name Chaffyn Grove. In the 19th c. a female successor married into the Troyte Bullock family.

According to family tradition the handkerchief was thought to have belonged to Charles I, but there is no crown with the embroidered 'C' or 'R' & 'I'. Such an attribution without more concrete documentation is dubious and the kerchief has been acquired solely for its intrinsic value as fine and rare example of 17th century dress.

Historical significance: This is a rare example of an undecorated 17th century kerchief.
Summary
Most surviving handkerchiefs from the 1600s are very decorative and obviously only meant for show. This is a rare example of one meant for practical use. A linen kerchief was an essential part of the seventeenth century wardrobe. Women wore them for modesty, to fill in a low-necked bodice or waistcoat.

In the days before disposable paper tissues, a linen handkerchief was an essential accessory for men and women. This example measures approximately 69 cm x 67 cm and could have been used for either purpose.

Very few historical garments of plain linen survive. When no longer wearable, anything made of linen was sold to a rag merchant and recycled into writing paper.
Bibliographic reference
North, Susan, 'Linen Kerchief', in North, Susan and Jenny Tiramani, eds, Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns, vol.1, London: V&A Publishing, 2011, pp.142-143
Collection
Accession number
T.69-2004

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Record createdJuly 19, 2004
Record URL
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