Obi thumbnail 1
Obi thumbnail 2
+2
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Not currently on display at the V&A
On short term loan out for exhibition

Obi

2002 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

In the latter half of the 1980s, the yukata, or summer kimono, began to make a comeback in Japan as casual summer wear amongst young women. Traditional versions were indigo and white, and whilst today there are no restrictions on the use of colour, the yukata has not witnessed any great variation in the basic design. The overwhelming majority employ some sort of traditional pattern such as a flower design or water pattern, with the odd ice cream cone or goldfish. In 2002, the British design team Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Limited to produce a range of textiles for the Japanese market. The range of fabric designs created by Bentley & Spens has taken the traditional roots of the yukata and embodied it with a chic and playful image.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Machine woven black and metallic thread
Brief description
Obi, designed in England by Bentley & Spens, made in Japan by Kawashima Textile Manufacturers, 2002.
Physical description
This obi is highly decorative, pairs of angels in lozenges are woven in gold metallic thread onto a black ground. The name of the designers, Bentley and Spens, is woven on the reverse.
Dimensions
  • Repeat length: 18cm
  • Repeat width: 9in
  • Repeat length: 46cm
  • Repeat width: 22.8cm
  • Collar to hem length: 62.5in
  • Collar to hem length: 158cm
  • Including sleeves width: 66in
  • Including sleeves width: 167.5cm
  • Under arms width: 30in
  • Under arms width: 76.2cm
  • Silk width: 18.5in
  • Silk width: 47cm
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
Bentley & Spens woven on reverse of obi
Credit line
Given by Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Ltd.
Object history
The obi is part of the Bentley & Spens Yukata Collection 2002 'Outgoing'
Historical context
The modern kimono began to take shape in the Heian period (CE 794-1192). Since then the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono has remained essentially unchanged: a T-shaped, straight-lined robe that falls to the ankles, with a collar, and sleeves that fall to the wrist. The sleeves also fall from the wrist to approximately the waist if the arms are held straight out (though some styles have extremely long sleeves (see below); the sleeves of some kimono fall almost to the floor). The robe is wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right, and secured by a wide belt (called an obi) which is tied in the back.
Production
Reason For Production: Retail
Subject depicted
Summary
In the latter half of the 1980s, the yukata, or summer kimono, began to make a comeback in Japan as casual summer wear amongst young women. Traditional versions were indigo and white, and whilst today there are no restrictions on the use of colour, the yukata has not witnessed any great variation in the basic design. The overwhelming majority employ some sort of traditional pattern such as a flower design or water pattern, with the odd ice cream cone or goldfish. In 2002, the British design team Bentley & Spens collaborated with Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Limited to produce a range of textiles for the Japanese market. The range of fabric designs created by Bentley & Spens has taken the traditional roots of the yukata and embodied it with a chic and playful image.
Collection
Accession number
T.13-2004

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Record createdJune 18, 2004
Record URL
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