Theatre costume
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
[Theatre costume] Brocade, satin, sequins, gold braid, ribbon, artificial jewels, gilt metal and fringe
[Theatre costume] Satin, metal cord and sequins
- Credit Line:
Given by Sir Cecil Beaton
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
Theatre & Performance, room 105, case 11
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This costume, acquired for the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton, is an authentic Siamese dance costume, worn by the French dancer Cléo de Mérode. Siamese dance was a highly developed form related to Indian dance, but it was unknown in Europe until the early 20th century. Characteristic features of the costumes include the high, almost architectural headdress and wide collar, while the false fingernails would have intensified the impact of the hands, which play an important part in Siamese dance. The quality of the costume, especially the gold fabrics, is superb.
De Mérode was a leading dancer of her time, although her professional reputation became overshadowed by her beauty and fashion-setting hairstyle, and her possible liaison with the Belgian King Léopold, uncle to Queen Victoria.
Siamese dance is still relatively unknown in the West compared with Indian dance. Most people only experience it at second hand in Jerome Robbins's 'Small House of Uncle Thomas' ballet in Rodgers and Hammerstein's musical The King and I. Robbins's choreography used the characteristic elements of Siamese dance and theatre, although complete authenticity was out of the question in the context of a Broadway show.
Physical description
Siamese dance costume worn by the dancer Cléo de Mérode, ca.1900
[Theatre costume] Divided tunic in gold brocade richly decorated with gold sequins, the back panel longer than the front. Front and back and open sleeves all with a wide band of red satin at the lower edge decorated in a trellis pattern in gold rick-rack braid with simulated diamonds and sapphires and, at centre, a gilt metal plaque of a seated god. The v-shaped collar similarly decorated with a line of simulated diamonds at the lower front edge and gold metal fringe at lower edge. All edges of brocade and satin trimmed with a band of ribbon made from narrow multicoloured strands heavily covered in gold thread, the ribbon decorated with simulated emeralds, and all edged with gold metal fringe. The tunic lined with purple brocade patterned in gold.
[Theatre costume] Pair of gold satin breeches, the legs embroidered with horizontal lines of metal cord in an alternating pattern of waves and curls, all encrusted with gold sequins.
[Theatre costume] Asymmetric mantle in gold brocade decorated with gold sequins with a wide panel of red satin at the lower edge, the panel embroidered with a foliage pattern in gold metal thread and encrusted with gold sequins. The sides, edge of brocade and lower edge trimmed with a band of ribbon made from narrow multicoloured strands heavily covered in gold thread, and edged with gold metal fringe. The left side extended over the shoulder to form a v-shaped collar, secured at the right shoulder with a hook and eye fastening. The mantle lined with red satin.
[Theatre costume] Oriental headdress in gilt metal with filigree ornament and medallions tremblant, encrusted with simulated diamonds.
Date
ca. 1900 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
[Theatre costume] Brocade, satin, sequins, gold braid, ribbon, artificial jewels, gilt metal and fringe
[Theatre costume] Satin, metal cord and sequins
Dimensions
[Theatre costume] Height: 71 cm from shoulder to lower edge of back panel, including fringe
[Theatre costume] Height: 64 cm
[Theatre costume] Length: 92 cm shortest side, Length: 122 cm longest side from shoulder to lower edge, excluding fringe, Width: 53 cm excluding fringe
[Theatre costume] Height: 55 cm, Width: 24 cm, Depth: 15 cm
Object history note
This costume was presented to the V&A by Sir Cecil Beaton. It was passed to the Theatre Museum by the Department of Textiles and Dress.
Descriptive line
Siamese dance costume worn by the dancer Cléo de Mérode, ca.1900
Exhibition History
Theatre and Performance (Victoria and Albert Museum, Galleries 103 -106 01/01/2009-31/12/2009)
Materials
Glass; Satin; Metal thread; Gilt metal; Sequins; Ribbon; Gold braid; Brocade; Fringe; Metal cord
Techniques
Sewing; Metal-working
Categories
Entertainment & Leisure; Stage costumes; Hats & headwear
Collection code
T&P
