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Theatre costume

  • Date:

    1980 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Stennett, Michael (Costume designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    [Theatre costume] Velvet, gold satin, gold brocade, fur fabric, gold cord, gold braid, glass jewels, chain, gold beads, imitation pearls.
    [Theatre costume] Velvet, cotton, synthetic fabric, gold cord and gold lamé

  • Credit Line:

    Given by the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden

  • Museum number:

    S.80:1 to 2-2003

  • Gallery location:

    Theatre & Performance, room 105, case 10

  • Image in copyright

Michael Stennett designed this costume for Alfonso d'Este in Donizetti's opera Lucrezia Borgia, for the Royal Opera in 1980. The role was sung by Stafford Dean, who was a mainstay of post-war British opera, singing with the Royal Opera and many other companies.

The costume is designed so that, from his first entrance, the audience recognises d'Este's status; colour, richness and sheer bulk, add gravitas to the character and performer. If it had been made in lighterweight materials, it would have given quite the wrong impression. It is vast and extremely heavy, and under the heat of stage lights must have been almost unbearable to wear, let alone perform a major operatic role. It was made by Carl Bonn and Colin Mackenzie, who were acknowledged as the finest costumiers of the 1970s and 1980s, being meticulous in both cut and decoration of a garment and with an unrivalled understanding of how to translate a two-dimensional design into a three-dimensional, wearable, costume.

Physical description

[Theatre costume] Voluminous 'Renaissance' robe crimson velvet, with huge wired oversleeves, from which falls a hanging sleeve lined with gold satin and edged with gold brocaded fabric and, at the lower edged, trimmed with a decorative motif in gold braid. The deep collar of fake spotted fur continues down the front edges, and the same fur edges the oversleeves. Fixed into the oversleeves are voluminous sleeves in ruby red velvet, gathered horizontally in graduated puffs to the deep fitted cuffs trimmed with gold cord looped knots. Fixed to the collar is an elaborate chain made of links of gold braid strapwork panels alternating with elaborate 'jewelled' panels of bold red glass jewels, surrounded by gold metal chain, gold beads, fake pearls and gold braid; at centre front is an elaborate medallion made of a red jewel framed in gold braid, with gold beads and fake pearls in gold surrounds.
[Theatre costume] Full length slightly flared, sleeveless, high-necked costume, the front of ruby red velvet, the back of black glazed cotton. The velvet is covered with an elaborate appliqué of interlacing scrolls and 'frames' in gold synthetic fabric, painted or overlaid with gold cord and edged with fine gold cord. The armholes are bound with gold lamé. The collar is edged with a small pleated frill and trimmed with gold cord.

Date

1980 (made)

Artist/maker

Stennett, Michael (Costume designer)

Materials and Techniques

[Theatre costume] Velvet, gold satin, gold brocade, fur fabric, gold cord, gold braid, glass jewels, chain, gold beads, imitation pearls.
[Theatre costume] Velvet, cotton, synthetic fabric, gold cord and gold lamé

Marks and inscriptions

[Theatre costume] "(printed) Bonn & Mackenzie LTD / TELEPHONE - 01.836.1393 / (handwritten) STAFFORD DEAN / ALFONSO D'ESTE / LUCREZIA BORGIA"
[Theatre costume] "(printed) Bonn & Mackenzie LTD / TELEPHONE - 01.836.1393 / (handwritten) STAFFORD DEAN / ALFONSO D'ESTE / LUCREZIA BORGIA""(printed) Bonn & Mackenzie LTD / TELEPHONE - 01.836.1393 / (handwritten) STAFFORD DEAN / ALFONSO D'ESTE / LUCREZIA BORGIA"

Dimensions

Height: 200 cm, Width: 150 cm, Depth: 100 cm

Object history note

This costume is for Alfonso d'Este in Donizetti's opera Lucrezia Borgia, designed by Michael Stennett for the Royal Opera in 1980. Alfonso was sung by Stafford Dean.

Descriptive line

Costume for Alfonso d'Este in Donizetti's opera Lucrezia Borgia, designed by Michael Stennett, Royal Opera 1980.

Exhibition History

Theatre and Performance (Victoria and Albert Museum, Galleries 103 -106 01/01/2009-31/12/2009)

Materials

Glass; Cotton (textile); Metal; Velvet; Beads; Synthetic fabric; Gold braid; Brocade; Fur fabric; Lamé; Pearls (imitation); Synthetic satin; Gold cord

Techniques

Glueing; Machine stitching; Hand stitching

Categories

Entertainment & Leisure; Stage costumes

Collection code

T&P

Qr_O96195
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