Ear Ornament thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
South Asia Gallery, Room 41

Ear Ornament

ca. 1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The large section of this gold ornament clips onto the outer curve of the ear, while the chain would be attached to the wearer's hair. The ornament uses a type of cut work almost certainly derived from European cut-steel jewellery of the late 18th century. The facets cut into the steel would help the metal reflect light. The fashion in Europe for this sort of ornament continued into the 19th century but lost its appeal in about 1850. This ornament was probably one of a pair.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold, pierced and chased, with cutwork and filigree
Brief description
Ear ornament (kanphata), Calcutta, about 1870
Physical description
The main body of the 'Kan pasha' is partially ear shaped and is designed to clip on to the outer curve of the ear. A mythical bird which hooks to the hair, is linked to the main part by means of a chain of rosettes. The 'Kan pasha' also has a similar bird at the linkage point. The pattern of the main body included cut-work and several small pendants or 'jhumkas' on the outer edge. The 'cut-work' copied from European patterns has been used successfully.
Dimensions
  • Height: 19.3cm
Object history
Acquired from the Annual International Exhibition, London 1872.
Summary
The large section of this gold ornament clips onto the outer curve of the ear, while the chain would be attached to the wearer's hair. The ornament uses a type of cut work almost certainly derived from European cut-steel jewellery of the late 18th century. The facets cut into the steel would help the metal reflect light. The fashion in Europe for this sort of ornament continued into the 19th century but lost its appeal in about 1850. This ornament was probably one of a pair.
Bibliographic references
  • Susan Stronge, Nima Smith, and J.C. Harle. A Golden Treasury : Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent London : Victoria and Albert Museum in association with Mapin Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1988. ISBN: 0944142168 p.64 STRONGE, Susan, Nima Smith and James Harle, A Golden Treasury. Jewellery from the Indian subcontinent, London, 1988, catalogue number 54, p.64 HENDLEY, Thomas Holbein, The Journal of Indian Art and Industry, Vol. XII, 1906-9, fig.795 See also HAQUE, Zulekha, Gahana: Jewellery of Bangladesh, Dhaka, 1984, fig.80
  • Arts of Bengal : the heritage of Bangladesh and eastern India : an exhibition organized by the Whitechapel Art Gallery in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum : 9 November-30 December 1979, Whitechapel Art Gallery ..., 12 January-17 February 1980, Manchester City Art Gallery ... . [London]: Whitechapel Art Gallery, [1979] Number: 085488047X (pbk.) : p.73
Collection
Accession number
995-1872

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Record createdFebruary 27, 2004
Record URL
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