Silk Velvet thumbnail 1
Not on display

Silk Velvet

early 17th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The Ottomans used luxurious silk textiles for furnishings and for men’s and women’s clothing. The most prestigious were velvet and complex silk weaves called kemha and seraser. These often incorporated thread wrapped with silver or silver gilt.

The main centre for silk-weaving was Bursa in north-west Anatolia in Turkey. The industry was established there in the 15th century, largely to compete with Italian imports. The two most popular designs were the curved lattice, and rows of stylised flowers or stars. Originally introduced to Turkey from Italy, they gradually evolved into the dramatic, large-scale patterns associated with the Ottoman court. In this velvet the basic design, with large motifs in staggered rows, is derived from Italian models, but the stylised carnations are unmistakably Ottoman.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk velvet with metal-wrapped thread
Brief description
Silk velvet with large carnation-motifs, Turkey (probably Bursa), 1600-50.
Physical description
Silk velvet with metal thread. The design is a formal pattern of highly stylised carnations set in staggered rows. The carnations are executed in cream on a deep red ground.
Dimensions
  • Length: 178cm
  • Width: 67.5cm
  • Weight: 6kg
including backboard
Style
Marks and inscriptions
  • Transliteration
Gallery label
(2006-2012)
Jameel Gallery

Velvet with Carnations
Turkey, probably Bursa
1600-50

Turkish weavers adapted Italian textile patterns and made them more identifiably Ottoman. Here the basic design, with large motifs in staggered rows, is derived from Italian models, but the stylised carnations are unmistakably Ottoman.

Silk velvet with metal-wrapped thread

Museum no. 96-1878
Object history
This textile was the inspiration for an Osborne and Little wallpaper called Wilde Carnation, available in 2006.
Summary
The Ottomans used luxurious silk textiles for furnishings and for men’s and women’s clothing. The most prestigious were velvet and complex silk weaves called kemha and seraser. These often incorporated thread wrapped with silver or silver gilt.

The main centre for silk-weaving was Bursa in north-west Anatolia in Turkey. The industry was established there in the 15th century, largely to compete with Italian imports. The two most popular designs were the curved lattice, and rows of stylised flowers or stars. Originally introduced to Turkey from Italy, they gradually evolved into the dramatic, large-scale patterns associated with the Ottoman court. In this velvet the basic design, with large motifs in staggered rows, is derived from Italian models, but the stylised carnations are unmistakably Ottoman.
Bibliographic reference
Tim Stanley (ed.), with Mariam Rosser-Owen and Stephen Vernoit, Palace and Mosque: Islamic Art from the Middle East, London, V&A Publications, 2004 p.125
Collection
Accession number
96-1878

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Record createdFebruary 23, 2004
Record URL
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