Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Fragment
200-800 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Several small fragments and one rectangular fragment of polychrome patterned weave made of blue, buff and pink silk. The pattern shows stepped rectangles, spots, eight-petalled rosettes and roundels with rayed edges. The edges are turned under and the whole piece is backed with a fabric of plain woven white unidentified plant fibre. This piece has a selvedge intact. It is unclear what this textile would have been used for, although it is likely to have been part of a burial shroud. It was recovered from the site of Astana, an ancient burial ground where the tombs date from the 3rd to the 8th century AD.

The sites are part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. Whilst silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This textile was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The V&A has around 650 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Pattern woven silk, plain woven plant fibre and plain woven silk
Brief description
Several small fragments and a rectangular pattern woven silk in blue, buff and pink.
Physical description
Four small fragments and one rectangular fragment of polychrome patterned weave made of blue, buff and pink silk . The pattern shows stepped rectangles, spots, eight-petalled rosettes, and roundels with rayed rim. The edges of the fragment are turned under and the whole piece is backed with a fabric of plain woven white unidentified plant fibre. This piece has a selvedge intact.
Six tiny fragments of monochrome plain woven silk in pale yellow and blue respectively are kept together with the above material.
Dimensions
  • Largest fragment length: 29.8cm
  • Largest fragment width: 15cm
Styles
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India.
Historical context
Astana lies south of Turfan on the northern Silk Road. It once served as a burial site for Kharakhoja, an important trade centre during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). Here Stein unearthed a stunning array of burial objects, including: clay figurines, textiles, gold and silver coins, and thousand-year-old mortuary cakes, preserved in the dry heat of the desert. Ancient contracts for labour, land and grain purchases excavated at Astana and Kharakhoja show that carpets, rolls of silk, cotton and linen were often used as money. The V&A holds several silk fragments, dating from the third to the sixth century. These include plain and pattern-woven pieces, some of which have been resist-dyed, painted and embroidered. These figured silks incorporate decorative themes from Central Asia, Persia and China; reflecting the rich mingling of cultures which occurred along the Silk Road.
Association
Summary
Several small fragments and one rectangular fragment of polychrome patterned weave made of blue, buff and pink silk. The pattern shows stepped rectangles, spots, eight-petalled rosettes and roundels with rayed edges. The edges are turned under and the whole piece is backed with a fabric of plain woven white unidentified plant fibre. This piece has a selvedge intact. It is unclear what this textile would have been used for, although it is likely to have been part of a burial shroud. It was recovered from the site of Astana, an ancient burial ground where the tombs date from the 3rd to the 8th century AD.

The sites are part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. Whilst silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This textile was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The V&A has around 650 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilson, Verity. 'Early Textiles from Central Asia: Approaches to Study with reference to the Stein Loan Collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London', Textile History 26 (1) . Devon: David & Charles/Pasold Research Fund Ltd, 1995, pp.23-52.
  • Stein, Aurel, Sir. Innermost Asia; Detailed report of explorations in Central Asia, Kan-Su and Eastern Iran, 4 vols (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1928), vol. II, p. 705; vol. III, pl. LXXXIII.
Other number
Ast.ix.2.02 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.306

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Record createdFebruary 19, 2004
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