Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Fragment
8th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These fragments are of tablet woven blue and red wool showing a geometric design. They were recovered from the site of Miran Fort on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. At this site material was discovered in the remains of a fort held by the Tibetans during their domination of the southern Taklamakan in the 8th century AD.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. Whilst silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This textile was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The V&A has around 650 ancient and medieval textiles recovered from the Silk Road by Stein at the beginning of the20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Tablet woven wool
Brief description
Fragments of pattern woven wool in red and blue geometric design.
Physical description
Three fragments of polychrome tablet woven blue and red wool, showing a geometric design. There are no preserved edges. The pattern is 'comb'motifs on a red and pink striped bottom. The pink stripes are threaded with two pink- and two blue threads in each tablet. The red stripes with two red-, one yellow- and one blue thread in each tablet. The technique is a combination of double faced 3/1 broekn twill and Snartemo (Norway) technique. There are 10-11 tablets per cm and the weft count is 10 per cm. There are two separate fragments preserved at the mounting but the bigger seems to be two separare fragments mounted wrongly as one whole item. The width of the 'combs' are 1.7 cm. This item seems a litte bit coarser than LOAN:STEIN.588 (Lise Raeder Knudsen, August 2008).
Dimensions
  • Largest piece length: 18.3cm
  • Largest piece width: 7cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India.
Object history
Michael Ryder has identified the wool used as yak underwool.
Historical context
The Miran fort lies midway along southern Silk Road, at the foot of the Kunlun Mountains. When Tibetan troops occupied the area in the late eight century AD, they built the fort to guard one of many routes through which they moved into Central Asia. In 1907, Stein excavated rubbish heaps at the fort and found wood slips, dating from the eight to the ninth century AD, which provided early examples of Tibetan writing. He also found fragments of wool rugs in bright colours and pieces of silk. The V&A holds a large number of textiles from the Miran Fort on loan, including spun wool, pattern and plain woven silk and wool, woven and spun hemp, woven horsehair, cords and painted silk.
Association
Summary
These fragments are of tablet woven blue and red wool showing a geometric design. They were recovered from the site of Miran Fort on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. At this site material was discovered in the remains of a fort held by the Tibetans during their domination of the southern Taklamakan in the 8th century AD.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. Whilst silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This textile was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The V&A has around 650 ancient and medieval textiles recovered from the Silk Road by Stein at the beginning of the20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals
Bibliographic references
  • Ryder, Michael. 'Ancient fibres from the Silk Route in Central Asia', Textiles Magazine. Manchester: Textile Institute, no 3, 1999.
  • Stein, Aurel, Serindia: Detailed Report of Exploration in Central Asia and Westernmost China Carried Out and Described Under the Orders of H.M Indian Government , 5 vols (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1921), vol. I, p.478.
Other number
M.I.0088 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.587

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdFebruary 9, 2004
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest