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Shirt

Shirt
1850-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Without precise tailoring it is difficult to combine fullness and close-fit in one garment. The problem has been solved in this boy's shirt by using concertina-like pin-tucks to reduce the fullness across the chest, combined with loose gathers over the shoulders and a drawstring around the waist. The pin-tucks and the gathers change the character of the plain cotton cloth by adding textures and shadows.

To a certain extent this three-dimensional quality is balanced by the addition of flat satin-stitch embroidery in red, orange and purple cotton. The narrow vertical rows nestle within the pin-tucks, while the more prominent central row (with orange pearlized buttons) and the waistband are softened by a pointed edging of needle lace. The collar, which is slightly overshadowed by the exuberant decoration across the chest, features eyelet embroidery. This gives another textural effect that changes the nature of the cloth.

Eyelets have been used to great effect along the edges of the very full sleeves: the holes have been oversewn with white cotton and contrasted with narrow, solid bands of red, making the sleeves look delicate and pretty. A sharp metal die will have been used to stamp out these holes and to produce the scalloped edges. It would have been impossible to use scissors or a knife to produce such regular edges and identical holes.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleShirt
Materials and techniques
Cotton embroidered with cotton thread
Brief description
Shirt, cotton, Hungary (Mezokovesd), 1850-1899.
Physical description
Boy's shirt, cotton embroidered with cotton thread. The front, shoulders, wide sleeves and lower edge are ornamented with conventional floral patterns in red, yellow and dark blue cotton thread. On the neck and sleeves are floral patterns in cutwork. A narrow border of green woollen braid runs over the shoulders and round the bottom, and down the front are five iridescent glass buttons.
Dimensions
  • Including fringe height: 31.5in
  • Including sleeves width: 48in
Object history
Purchased from Herr A. Szmik of London alongside objects 71 to 89-1970. Registered File number 82182/1903.

A note in the register says: 'General Remarks: Palsiz Megs Koresd'.
Subject depicted
Summary
Without precise tailoring it is difficult to combine fullness and close-fit in one garment. The problem has been solved in this boy's shirt by using concertina-like pin-tucks to reduce the fullness across the chest, combined with loose gathers over the shoulders and a drawstring around the waist. The pin-tucks and the gathers change the character of the plain cotton cloth by adding textures and shadows.

To a certain extent this three-dimensional quality is balanced by the addition of flat satin-stitch embroidery in red, orange and purple cotton. The narrow vertical rows nestle within the pin-tucks, while the more prominent central row (with orange pearlized buttons) and the waistband are softened by a pointed edging of needle lace. The collar, which is slightly overshadowed by the exuberant decoration across the chest, features eyelet embroidery. This gives another textural effect that changes the nature of the cloth.

Eyelets have been used to great effect along the edges of the very full sleeves: the holes have been oversewn with white cotton and contrasted with narrow, solid bands of red, making the sleeves look delicate and pretty. A sharp metal die will have been used to stamp out these holes and to produce the scalloped edges. It would have been impossible to use scissors or a knife to produce such regular edges and identical holes.
Bibliographic reference
Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002. 224 p., ill. ISBN 09781851773787. pp. 62 and 162.
Collection
Accession number
73-1903

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Record createdFebruary 9, 2004
Record URL
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