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Entari

Entari

  • Place of origin:

    Turkey (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1900 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Embroidered silk with metal thread and sequins, braid, lined with cotton

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Miss Inés de Vaudry

  • Museum number:

    T.96 to B-1954

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This gown is said to have been worn by a bride at her wedding, but it is not designed for movement or necessarily for close inspection. It is made from a length of green silk which has been embroidered with couched metal thread and lines of glittering sequins, in a floral pattern that had been printed or drawn on the fabric. The silk was cut into the pieces required for the robe. Cutting and seaming through embroidery seems like sacrilege in an age and culture where hand-decoration is expensive, but it is not an uncommon practice where labour is relatively cheap. The edges have been decorated with an elaborate trimming of metal thread that has been twisted and stitched into a complex floral motif. As the silk has no backing the trimming is floppy and reveals the unsightly tacking stitches that hold the individual metal threads in place. However, this is a presentation gown in which the wearer was expected to stand perfectly still. This style of garment is designed to trail on the floor, with each panel elegantly arranged over and around the woman’s feet. With the bride immobilized in this way, each part of the trimming could be carefully adjusted to create a breathtaking vision of green and gold.

Physical description

Woman's wedding outfit consisting of an entari of embroidered green watered-silk in metal thread with flowing floral scrolls, and sequins. Lined with cotton. Worn with pink silk trousers embellished with applied gold braid and lined with cotton, and an embroidered green silk sash with sequins.

Place of Origin

Turkey (made)

Date

ca. 1900 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Embroidered silk with metal thread and sequins, braid, lined with cotton

Object history note

This costume belonged to Princess Eff-keen-Oskanyan, who was the donor's mother, part of an Armenian Christian family resident in Istanbul. It is said to have been worn as one of her wedding garments.

Descriptive line

Woman's wedding outfit consisting of an entari of embroidered silk in metal thread, silk trousers and sash, Turkey, ca. 1900

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Crill, Rosemary, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson. Dress in Detail from Around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002. 224 p., ill. ISBN 09781851773787. p. 88

Materials

Silk; Metal thread; Sequins

Techniques

Weaving; Embroidering; Sewing

Subjects depicted

Floral

Categories

Women's clothes; Embroidery; Formal wear; Marriage; Textiles

Collection

Middle East Section

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