Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Fragment
1000-1250 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This long strip of silk is in green and yellow plain weave. The different coloured silk threads alternate randomly both in the warp and weft. It is unclear what this textile would have been used for, although it is likely to have had a decorative purpose. It was recovered from the Buddhist site of Kharakoto, which dates from the 11th to the 13th century. The name Kharakhoto means 'The Black Town', which probably refers to the massive walls and bastions that were still visible above ground when excavations at the site began.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India along this route.

These textiles were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of animals.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Plain woven silk
Brief description
Strip of plain woven yellow-green and green silk
Physical description
Long strip of plain weave silk in green and yellowy green. The different coloured silk threads alternate randomly both in the warp and weft.
Dimensions
  • Length: 31.8cm
  • Width: 2.5cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India
Historical context
Kharakhoto lies east of the Tarim Basin, near Mongolia. The city was founded in the eleventh century AD by the Tanguts, an agricultural people; and Kharakhoto became capital of their Xixia Kingdom in the twelfth century AD. Overrun by the Mongols during the thirteenth century, Kharakhoto was retaken by the Chinese during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD). A Buddhist stupa at the site yielded paintings on silk, Buddhist manuscripts and woodblock prints, and hundreds of terracotta Buddha images. The V&A holds on loan four dyed and patterned silks from Kharakhoto.
Association
Summary
This long strip of silk is in green and yellow plain weave. The different coloured silk threads alternate randomly both in the warp and weft. It is unclear what this textile would have been used for, although it is likely to have had a decorative purpose. It was recovered from the Buddhist site of Kharakoto, which dates from the 11th to the 13th century. The name Kharakhoto means 'The Black Town', which probably refers to the massive walls and bastions that were still visible above ground when excavations at the site began.

The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India along this route.

These textiles were brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of animals.
Bibliographic reference
Stein, Aurel, Sir. Innermost Asia; Detailed report of explorations in Central Asia, Kan-Su and Eastern Iran, 4 vols (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1928), vol. I, p. 472.
Other number
K.K.II.023 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.453

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Record createdJanuary 7, 2004
Record URL
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