Not currently on display at the V&A

The Stein Collection

Fragment
300-500 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This textile piece is of plain woven cream silk and has both selvedges intact. Its original use is unknown. It was recovered from the site of Miran on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. At this site material was discovered at a Buddhist shrine abandoned in the 4th or 5th century AD.

The site is also part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This fragment was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleThe Stein Collection (named collection)
Materials and techniques
Plain woven silk
Brief description
Piece of plain woven cream silk.
Physical description
Rectangular piece of plain weave cream silk. Both selvedges intact.
Dimensions
  • Length: 154cm
  • Width: 56cm
Style
Credit line
Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India.
Object history
Attached to fragment is a rectangular sticky label showing Stein number possibly in Stein's handwriting or that of his assistant, Miss F M G Lorimer. The number 'M.X.004' on the label is more likely to be 'M.X.001', described by Stein as a "girdle of soft silk", or we have simply mis-read the writing.
Historical context
Miran lies between Kargilik and kake Lop Nor on the southern Silk Road. Stein excavated an ancient fort and remains of a Buddhist sanctuary there in 1907 and uncovered spectacular Buddhist murals in its temples and stupas. These depicted winged figures with garlands; imagery which he identified with the mythology and style of Persia and Greece. The appearance of the signature "Tita" led Stein to conclude that the paintings were the work of an artist from the eastern Mediterranean. Temple sculpture, including a colossal Buddha head, was rendered in the opulent Gandharan style of northwest India. Stein called this fusion of regional styles Graeco-Buddhist and determined that the site had flourished in the first centuries of the millennium, when trade along the southern Silk Road had thrived. The V&A holds, on loan, from Miran, silk and wool fragments, and a group of lotus flowers made of cotton and silk and fragments of a painted cotton temple hanging.
Association
Summary
This textile piece is of plain woven cream silk and has both selvedges intact. Its original use is unknown. It was recovered from the site of Miran on the eastern verge of the Taklamakan desert. At this site material was discovered at a Buddhist shrine abandoned in the 4th or 5th century AD.

The site is also part of an area now referred to as the Silk Road, a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia, from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed their goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas – while silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

This fragment was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862–1943). The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 700 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the twentieth century. The textiles range in date from the second century BC to the twelfth century AD. Some are silk while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals.
Bibliographic reference
Stein, Aurel, Serindia: Detailed Report of Exploration in Central Asia and Westernmost China Carried Out and Described Under the Orders of H.M Indian Government , 5 vols (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1921), vol. I, chp. XII - XIII, p.547
Other number
M.X.001 - Stein number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:STEIN.276

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Record createdJanuary 6, 2004
Record URL
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