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Wall hanging

Hanging
ca. 1640-1650 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This intriguing hanging is an important early example of the complex techniques of dyeing with resists and mordants that came to be known in the West by the anglicised term 'chintz'. It is, however, unclear whether this piece was actually made under western patronage or simply uses western figures as part of its design. The outer border, which was added in the 18th century, is certainly of the type made for the western market.

The main part of the hanging is divided into two main sections. The upper part shows two men and two youths in Persian dress (although their pale complexions and blue eyes are incongruous), while the lower half shows two European, probably Dutch, men at a table, accompanied by a striped dog and two women in costumes that combine Indian and western elements. A Venetian glass sweetmeat dish is seen standing on the floor, and a European ribbed glass can be identified on the table. Other vessels are in both Chinese and Indo-Persian styles. The figures in the small niches surrounding the main part of the hanging are in Indian dress, and the architectural surroundings of the piece suggest an Indian palace.

A companion piece with similar figures is in the Metropolitan Museum, New York.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleWall hanging
Materials and techniques
Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed
Brief description
Wall hanging depicting figures in Persian and European dress, cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed, Coromandel Coast, South-East India, ca. 1640-50, with 18th century border
Physical description
Large hanging of painted and dyed cotton (chintz), depicting figures in Persian and European dress, surrounded by small niches containing figures mainly in Indian dress. There is an added border of later (18th-century) chintz fabric.
Dimensions
  • Length: 259cm
  • Width: 152cm
Gallery label
DEPICTING NATIONS This enigmatic hanging shows two men and boys in Persian dress, with Europeans in the lower panel. Depictions of European figures on textiles made for Indian patrons were rare in the 1640s but would become more common in the following century. Two related pieces with Indian men and women survive. All were probably hung together to create a dramatic gallery of human figures. Cotton, hand-drawn and dyed, with later borders Coromandel Coast, 1640-50 V&A: 687-1898(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
Production
Probably made in the Madras-Pulicat region of the Coromandel Coast, South-east India.
Summary
This intriguing hanging is an important early example of the complex techniques of dyeing with resists and mordants that came to be known in the West by the anglicised term 'chintz'. It is, however, unclear whether this piece was actually made under western patronage or simply uses western figures as part of its design. The outer border, which was added in the 18th century, is certainly of the type made for the western market.

The main part of the hanging is divided into two main sections. The upper part shows two men and two youths in Persian dress (although their pale complexions and blue eyes are incongruous), while the lower half shows two European, probably Dutch, men at a table, accompanied by a striped dog and two women in costumes that combine Indian and western elements. A Venetian glass sweetmeat dish is seen standing on the floor, and a European ribbed glass can be identified on the table. Other vessels are in both Chinese and Indo-Persian styles. The figures in the small niches surrounding the main part of the hanging are in Indian dress, and the architectural surroundings of the piece suggest an Indian palace.

A companion piece with similar figures is in the Metropolitan Museum, New York.
Bibliographic references
  • Ayers, J. Oriental Art in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London 1983, ISBN 0-85667-120-7 p. 75 M.Gittinger, 'Master Dyers to the World. Technique and trade in early Indian dyed cotton textiles', Washington, 1982, cat.no.103. Guy, J., and Swallow, D., (eds). ‘Arts of India: 1550-1900’. London : Victoria and Albert Museum, 1990. ISBN 1851770224., p.161, pl.138
  • Irwin, John and Katherine Brett, Origins of Chintz, London, 1970. With a catalogue of Indo-European cotton-paintings in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. ISBN 112900534. p.64, pl. 2
  • Crill, Rosemary, Arts of Asia, vol. 45, no. 5, September - October 2015, "The Fabric of India" Exhibition, p.76, pl. 22.
  • Sultans of Deccan India, 1500-1700 : opulence and fantasy / Navina Najat Haidar and Marika Sardar ; with contributions by John Robert Alderman [and 14 others]. Number: 9781588395665 (Metropolitan Museum of Art), 1588395669 (Metropolitan Museum of Art), 9780300211108 (Yale University Press), 0300211104 (Yale University Press) pp. 274-5, cat. no. 164.
  • The art of India and Pakistan, a commemorative catalogue of the exhibition held at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 1947-8. Edited by Sir Leigh Ashton. London: Faber and Faber, [1950] pp. 215-216, cat. no. 1028
  • Irwin, John, C., A Brief Guide to Indian Art, H.M.S.O. 1962 fig. 22
  • Irwin, John; Indian Art: Victoria & Albert Museum departmental guide, H.M.S.O. ISBN 0 905209117, 1978 fig. 22p. 17
Collection
Accession number
687-1898

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Record createdJanuary 6, 2004
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