Pair of earrings by Valerie Robertson in white cardboard box, 1979

Clip on earrings shaped like an irregular 'V' or tick. The longer section, which is pleated towards the end, follows the lower edge of the ear when worn, while the shorter section flares vertically, following the edge of the face. Each earring is made from a single narrow strip of metal sheet, tapering at each end, which has been twisted two-thirds of the way along. The central panel is of silvery iridescent plastic foil, which shimmers with green, blue, pink and purple.

Given by Janine du Plessis

Valerie Robertson graduated from the Royal College of Art in 1979 and these earrings, which relate directly to the work shown in her degree show, were made immediately afterwards. The donor, as Fashion Editor for the magazine New Style, used them in a fashion shoot in the September / October issue (pp 19 - 22) where their retail price is given as £12.50. They are shown with clothes designed by John McIntyre from fabric by Timney Fowler (they were also new graduates from the Royal College of Art, and exceptionally for degree show material these ensembles were taken by Browns of South Molton Street). Valerie Robertson's jewellery is detailed as being available at Strangeways, 3 Holland Street, a boutique then managed by the donor. The following year Zandra Rhodes commissioned work in a similar style and the same materials for her Spring / Summer Collection 1980 (see Farneti Cera, Deanna Jewels of Fantasy p.349).

This simple yet dramatic pair of earrings is a striking example of fashion jewellery from the late 1970s and early 1980s. They combine excellent design with innovative materials, and indicate the growing acceptance of non-precious materials by jewellery schools and colleges (in this case the Royal College of Art), and their successful adoption by young jewellers.

Although no longer designing jewellery, Valerie Robertson's work was very highly regarded at the time, and similar work was commissioned from her by fashion designer Zandra Rhodes for her Spring/Summer Collection in 1980.

M.52:1 to 4-2003