Necklace, made from a single piece of metal sheet, with central panel of silvery iridescent plastic foil, Valerie Roberson, 1979

A close fitting necklace made from a single piece of metal sheet, curved to follow the shape of the neck. It comes to a point at centre front and tapers towards the back. The central panel is of silvery iridescent plastic foil, which shimmers with green, blue, pink and purple. There is a safety chain at the back.

Given by Janine du Plessis

Valerie Robertson graduated from the Royal College of Art in 1979 and this necklace, which relates directly to the work shown in her degree show, was made immediately afterwards. The donor, as Fashion Editor for the magazine New Style, used it in a fashion shoot in the September / October issue (pp 19 - 22) where its retail price is given as £25. It is shown with clothes designed by John McIntyre from fabric by Timney Fowler (they were also new graduates from the Royal College of Art, and exceptionally for degree show material these ensembles were taken by Browns of South Molton Street). Valerie Robertson's jewellery is detailed as being available at Strangeways, 3 Holland Street, a boutique then managed by the donor. The following year Zandra Rhodes commissioned work in a similar style and the same materials for her Spring / Summer Collection 1980 (see Farneti Cera, Deanna Jewels of Fantasy p.349).

This simple yet dramatic necklace, made from a single piece of metal sheet, is a striking example of fashion jewellery from the late 1970s and early 1980s. It combines excellent design with innovative materials, and indicates the growing acceptance of non-precious materials by jewellery schools and colleges (in this case the Royal College of Art), and their successful adoption by young jewellers.

Although no longer designing jewellery, Valerie Robertson's work was very highly regarded at the time, and similar work was commissioned from her by Zandra Rhodes for her Spring/Summer Collection 1980.

M.50-2003