Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91 to 93 mezzanine, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Earring

ca. 1865 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The mounting of small birds or their heads in jewellery was fashionable in the 1860s and 1870s. A visitor to Harry Emanuel's shop in 1865 described his stock as including humming birds' heads mounted in necklaces and earrings. Complete humming bird heads, breasts and bodies, found in South America and perhaps prepared in the United States were used, and the international fashion endured until the 1870s. Ward & Co and A. Boucard contributed bird and beetle jewellery to the International Exhibition of 1872; the 'Report' referring to the latter's examples as 'specimens of beautiful colour'.

Harry Emanuel took over his father's jewellery business in 1855, and in 1865 followed his work in ivory with the use of feathers and plumage in jewellery. His patented technique involved the gluing of feathers to prepared mounts using shellac. He retired in 1873, and later became, at his own expense, the Minister Plenipotentiary (ambassador) of the Domican Republic in France. He died in Nice in 1898.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Bird heads, mounted in gold, with red glass eyes
Brief description
Pair of humming bird-head earrings, mounted in gold with feathers and red glass eyes, by Harry Emanuel, London, c. 1865
Physical description
Earrings made of a feathered bird-head mounted with a gold bill, red paste eyes, and on a gold back
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.3cm
  • Width: 2.3cm
  • Depth: 3.1cm
Marks and inscriptions
'* PATENT* / HE [monogram] / No. 1779' (Maker's mark HE for Harry Emmanuel and Patent no. 1779. Stamped (with the letters in relief) on the back of the gold shield on which the bird-head is mounted.)
Credit line
Given by Katharine Mortimer
Object history
The earrings were owned by Sidney Matilda Adams (1806-1886), great-great-grandmother of the donor.

Historical significance: A visitor to the shop of Harry Emanuel in 1865 described the stock as including humming birds' heads set as earrings and a brooch. The Queen, 26/08/1865, p. 145, cited in Culme, John. Directory of Gold & Silversmiths...1838-1914. Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club, 1987. Vol. i, p. 147.
Subject depicted
Summary
The mounting of small birds or their heads in jewellery was fashionable in the 1860s and 1870s. A visitor to Harry Emanuel's shop in 1865 described his stock as including humming birds' heads mounted in necklaces and earrings. Complete humming bird heads, breasts and bodies, found in South America and perhaps prepared in the United States were used, and the international fashion endured until the 1870s. Ward & Co and A. Boucard contributed bird and beetle jewellery to the International Exhibition of 1872; the 'Report' referring to the latter's examples as 'specimens of beautiful colour'.

Harry Emanuel took over his father's jewellery business in 1855, and in 1865 followed his work in ivory with the use of feathers and plumage in jewellery. His patented technique involved the gluing of feathers to prepared mounts using shellac. He retired in 1873, and later became, at his own expense, the Minister Plenipotentiary (ambassador) of the Domican Republic in France. He died in Nice in 1898.
Collection
Accession number
M.11:1, 2-2003

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Record createdNovember 30, 2003
Record URL
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