Dress for a woman qipao, jacquard-woven silk, Hong Kong, 1940-50

Dress for a woman, known as qipao or cheongsam in Cantonese, is made from purple silk patterned with junks, pavilions, trees and figures. It is sleeveless, full length, and closes either side of the neck in an apron-like manner. It is tailored to accentuate the waist.
The stiffened collar is closed with a triple floret arrangement identical to that on FE.38-1995, the collarbone fastenings to right and left also being the same. Underarm, the fastenings are in a spiral shape and press-studs complete the fastenings down the side.
These fastenings are made from blue satin and a yellow metallic woven strip identical to that used on FE.38-1995. These two materials are joined by a third - a pink satin - when they are used to edge the borders of the dress.

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On its own, the qipao is itself a modernised form of the dress worn by Manchu and Han women of the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). During the Republican period (1911-1949), the qipao was promoted as the dress of modern China, identifiably 'Chinese' on the one hand, and moving away from 'feudal' associations with the imperial past.

In its earlier form, the modern qipao was relatively loose and comfortable, a symbol of simplicity and frugality. By the 1940s, under the influence of Western tailoring, the dress had become tailored to be much more form-fitting (and fashionable). This example, made in the 1960s, retains the loose, comfortable cut of the qipao's earlier style, and may not have been considered fashionable for younger audiences. Still it demonstrates that the qipao became a classic staple in women's wardrobe, and is a versatile dress that may be adapted to different styles and tastes. The dress is made in warm thick rayon, and may have been intended to be worn in cooler seasons.
Mrs Garrett's card reads: donated Mr Fung San Yan, Stubbs road.

This Chinese dress is made from classic Chinese woven silk and is in the style known as a cheongsam or qipao. The style was popularized in the mid- to late-1920s when women in China began to play a greater role in public life. One of the main features of this type of dress is the intricate knot and loop fastenings.

FE.39-1995