Or are you looking for Search the Archives?

Please complete the form to email this item.

Fragment - The Stein Collection

The Stein Collection

  • Object:

    Fragment

  • Place of origin:

    Dunhuang (possibly, discovered)

  • Date:

    7th century to 10th century (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk twill and stitching

  • Credit Line:

    Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India

  • Museum number:

    LOAN:STEIN.402

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

This textile strip is of cream twill weave silk. It was brought back from central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). The textile was recovered from an area now called the Silk Road. This term was first used by the German scholar Ferdinand von Ricthofen (1833-1905) and refers to a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

The Victoria and Albert Museum has around 600 ancient and medieval textiles recovered by Stein at the beginning of the 20th century. Stein made several expeditions to the chain of abandoned oasis settlements in the Silk Road region and each time brought back a wide variety of material. The textiles range in date from the 1st century BC to the 12th century AD. Some are silk, while others are made from the wool of a variety of different animals. Most of the pieces are fragmentary and it is not easy to see what they would originally have been used for. Occasionally, whole items survive, such as shoes, purses and religious banners.

Physical description

Strip of monochrome, cream, twill weave silk folded, and edges turned in with stitches in red. Silk degummed and twisted fibres. Different coloured threads entangled.

Weave structures:
Warp: spun silk, Z twisted, single, white, 27 warps/cm; Weft: spun silk, Z twisted, single, white, 20 wefts/cm. Weave structure: 2/2Z twill

Place of Origin

Dunhuang (possibly, discovered)

Date

7th century to 10th century (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk twill and stitching

Dimensions

Length: 29 cm, Width: 1 cm

Historical context note

Dunhuang is at the eastern end of the southern Silk Road, in present-day Gansu Province. It lies between the western reaches of China and the Tarim Basin. When China began to expand into Central Asia during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD), Dunhuang served as a base for military operations and trade. In the succeeding centuries, Buddhist shrines were established southeast of Dunhuang in a series of man-made caves called Qianfodong, "Caves of the Thousand Buddhas" (today also known as the Mogao Grottoes). Here spectacular cave temples were cut out of the cliffs, beginning in the fourth century AD. Over a period of several centuries, communities of Buddhist monks filled the caves with splendid sculpture and wall paintings. These included colossal Buddha statues, painted clay sculptures of deities, elaborate murals of Buddhist legends, and thousands of tiny painted Buddha images; all of which gave the site its name, Qianfodong. Buddhist cave temples had first been established in at Bamiyan (Afghanistan) and Gandhara (formerly in India, now Pakistan). At Qianfodong, Stein found paintings of graceful figures in the Gandharan style among landscapes and buildings that were distinctly Chinese; a fusion of Indian and Chinese art, which he had noted elsewhere along the Silk Road.

In 1900, a Daoist monk named Wang Yuanlu discovered a secret cave at Qianfodung, which contained thousands of documents and paintings. Stein purchased a significant amount of this material from Wang during his visit to the Dunhuang in 1907. Among the many religious works were Buddhist, Jewish, Nestorian, Daoist and Confucian texts; all of which dated from approximately 400 to 1000 A.D. Numerous languages were represented as well, including Chinese, Sanskrit, Tibetan and Hebrew. Stein also acquired many textile pieces. Most of these were silk, for Dunhuang lay on the main trade route between silk-growing regions of China and Central Asia. Elaborate embroideries depicted Buddhist legends and processions of donors. Patterned silks included Chinese and Sassanian (Persian) designs. From China came floral and geometric patterns, combined with figures of animals and birds. Sassanian motifs included pairs of confronted ducks, lions, and other beasts, combined with medallions and quatrefoils. Stein also found undecorated silks used as processional banners and valances for decorating bases of statues. The cave was sealed soon after 1000 A.D., apparently to protect the contents from invading armies. The V&A holds, on loan, a large number of textiles from Dunhuang, including plain and pattern woven silks in many colours, painted Buddhist banners and canopies, and wrappers for Buddhist texts.

Descriptive line

Folded cream silk twill with stitching.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Stein, Aurel, Serindia: Detailed Report of Exploration in Central Asia and Westernmost China Carried Out and Described Under the Orders of H.M Indian Government , 5 vols (Oxford: The Clarendon Press, 1921).
Zhao Feng, ed. Textiles from Dunhuang in UK Collections. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2007. pp. 279.

Production Note

Similar to other fragments found in Cave 17 of the Mogao Grottoes (Caves of the Thousand Buddhas), although this piece has no identifying Stein number itself.

Materials

Silk

Techniques

Stitching; Twill weave

Categories

Archaeology; Textiles

Collection

East Asia Collection

Large image request

Please confirm you are using these images within the following terms and conditions, by acknowledging each of the following key points:

Please let us know how you intend to use the images you will be downloading.