Polychrome striped wool twill.

A small fragment of polychrome twill weave wool, striped in purple, orange, yellow, yellow-green, dark green and red.

Dye analysis:

Color detected: red
Compounds detected: alizarin + purpurin
Possible dye source: madder root.

Color detected: dark green
Compounds detected: luteolin glycosides + indigoten
Possible dye source: yellow 1 + indigo plant

Stein Textile Loan Collection. On loan from the Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India. Copyright: Government of India

Loulan was once an important garrison town which lay between the Pei shan and Taklamakan deserts on the Silk Road. The city was also a centre of Buddhist worship. When Sven Hedin explored the site in 1900, he discovered remains of a stupa, reliefs depicting Buddhas among lotuses, and statues of deities. This strategically important city is mentioned in Chinese records for the first time in 176 BC with the conquest by the Xiongnu, but the area fell under Chinese control around 100 BC. Located in the middle of the Silk Road, Loulan had contacts with many cultures, represented by hundreds of documents in Chinese, Indian Kharosthi, and Sogdian scripts which were unearthed by Hedin and Stein. A woollen cloth, which Stein found in a tomb, depicted the head of Hermes and his caduceus, or staff, in the classical style of western Asia. He also unearthed a number of mummies with feathered felt caps and arrow shafts by their sides; which indicated that a community of herdsmen and hunters had inhabited the region long before various imperial conquests. Loulan flourished until the fourth century AD, when it was abandoned, due to the desiccation of a nearby lake, Lop Nor. The V&A holds, on loan, a large number of textiles from Loulan, including cotton, wool and figured silks, carpet and tapestry fragments.

Excavated from, or found near, the grave-pits of Loulan cemetery.

This colourful woollen textile was brought back from Central Asia by the explorer and archaeologist Sir Marc Aurel Stein (1862-1943). It was recovered from Loulan cemetery, which dates from the 3rd to the 4th centuries AD. The Loulan site is remarkable for the carved wooden capitals, beams and balustrades that show clear affinities with western Classical decoration that filtered through Iran and Northwest India.
The site is also part of an area of Central Asia we now call the Silk Road. This term was first used by the German scholar Ferdinand von Ricthofen (1833-1905) and it refers to a series of overland trade routes that crossed Asia from China to Europe. The most notable item traded was silk. Camels and horses were used as pack animals and merchants passed the goods from oasis to oasis. The Silk Road was also important for the exchange of ideas. While silk textiles travelled west from China, Buddhism entered China from India in this way.

LOAN:STEIN.585