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Woven silk

Woven silk

  • Place of origin:

    Granada (made)
    Spain

  • Date:

    1330-1450 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Lampas weave silk with satin ground and weft-faced tabby pattern

    Dye samples of this textile were analysed as part of the project “Caracterización de las producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas” (“Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections”) (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval). Analysis was conducted by Enrique Parra at the Alfonso X El Sabio University, Madrid. The dyes were analysed through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), extracting threads with a thickness varying between 5 and 1mm by means of 100 µL of methanol/hydrochloric acid/water 1:2:1.

    The results for this textile were as follows:
    Cream coloured - not detected
    Yellow - not detected
    Blue - Indigo
    Red - Madder
    Green - not analysed

  • Museum number:

    1105-1900

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Silk cloth with inscriptions and floral arabesques in stripes, lampas weave with satin ground and weft-faced tabby pattern.

The inscription is in broad blue bands on a background of scrolling stems; between these are narrower bands with floral stems on a red ground and interlaced oranment on a green ground.

Place of Origin

Granada (made)
Spain

Date

1330-1450 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Lampas weave silk with satin ground and weft-faced tabby pattern

Dye samples of this textile were analysed as part of the project “Caracterización de las producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas” (“Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections”) (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval). Analysis was conducted by Enrique Parra at the Alfonso X El Sabio University, Madrid. The dyes were analysed through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), extracting threads with a thickness varying between 5 and 1mm by means of 100 µL of methanol/hydrochloric acid/water 1:2:1.

The results for this textile were as follows:
Cream coloured - not detected
Yellow - not detected
Blue - Indigo
Red - Madder
Green - not analysed

Dimensions

Length: 57.2 cm, Width: 88.9 cm

Object history note

This textile was part of a gift, presented to the museum by Dudley B. Meyers.

This piece is typical of classic Nasrid textiles produced at the beginning of the fifteenth century, coinciding with the reign of Muhammad V. They were decorated with stripes containing inscriptions, repeating along its length and alternating with narrower bands containing a lotus-like flower, between thin borders of interlaced knotwork designs. They existed in several variations and colour-ways, but the most usual inscription is the expression 'izz li-mawlana al-sultan', 'Glory to our Lord the Sultan'. (M. Rosser-Owen, 2010).

Historical context note

Samples of coloured threads from this object have been taken and are being analysed as part of a collaboration between the V&A and the Spanish Research project "Caracterización de als producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas" ("Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections") (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval).

Descriptive line

Middle East, Textile. Silk lampas with a geometric pattern, south-east Spain (perhaps Granada), 1300-1400.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

The Arts of Islam, Catalogue of the exhibition held at Hayward Gallery, 8 April - 4 July, 1976, The Arts Council of Great Britain, 1976. 396p., ill. ISBN 0 7287 0081 6 paper bound, 07287 0080 8 cloth bound.
Catalogue entry 17, p81
M. Rosser-Owen. Islamic Arts from Spain (London: V&A Publishing, 2010)
Published in 'Textile Art Early Summer 1984' (Shikosha) pl. 59.

Materials

Silk (textile)

Categories

Textiles; Islam

Collection

Middle East Section

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