Woven Silk

1100-1150 (made)
Woven Silk thumbnail 1
Woven Silk thumbnail 2
+27
images
Not currently on display at the V&A

Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Rectangular fragment of red, cream and blue silk compound twill, depicting confronted peacocks and unicorns around a central palm tree, Arabic inscriptions in beaded cartouches at top and bottom


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silk, weft-faced compound twill. Dye samples of this textile were analysed as part of the project “Caracterización de las producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas” (“Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections”) (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval). Analysis was conducted by Enrique Parra at the Alfonso X El Sabio University, Madrid. The dyes were analysed through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), extracting threads with a thickness varying between 5 and 1mm by means of 100 µL of methanol/hydrochloric acid/water 1:2:1. The results for this textile were as follows: Light blue - Indigo Dark blue - Indigo Cream coloured - not detected
Brief Description
Middle East, Textile. Silk lampas with a geometric pattern, south-east Spain (perhaps Granada), 1300-1400.
Physical Description
Rectangular fragment of red, cream and blue silk compound twill, depicting confronted peacocks and unicorns around a central palm tree, Arabic inscriptions in beaded cartouches at top and bottom
Dimensions
  • Length: 34cm
  • Width: 24cm
Marks and Inscriptions
Gallery Label
FRAGMENT OF SILK TWILL Silk twill with peacocks SPAIN (Andalusia); between 1100 and 1200 AD A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343), now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.(Used until 11/2003)
Object history
Purchased from Monsieur Stanlislas Baron in 1894 for £ 46.13.9.



A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.



Acquired as part of a collection of textile fragments, from M. Stanislas Baron, for the price of 800 francs. A portion of the collection was purchased by the Manchester School of Art.



Neg. 34744.
Historical context
A length of similar cloth is now in Paris (C L 12869) which was found in a 1258 context in the Church of St Sernin, Toulouse. The inscription belwo the peacock froms reads 'Perfect blessings' (Patricia Baker: Islamic Textiles, 1995:43)



Samples of coloured threads from this object have been taken and are being analysed as part of a collaboration between the V&A and the Spanish Research project "Caracterización de als producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas" ("Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections") (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval).
Production
A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.
Subjects depicted
Bibliographic References
  • Sievernich, Gereon, and Budde, Hendrik, Europa und der Orient 800-1900 , Berlin, 1989. Catalogue of the exhibition, 28 May - 27 August, 1989. 923 p., ill. ISBN 3750048144. Catalogue entry 4/31 pp561-2, Ill. 88, p174.
  • Viollet-le-Duc. Dictionnare du Mobilier Francais. p.360.
  • Prisse d'Avennes, 'L'Art Arabe', Vol III pl.148.
  • 'Textile Art Early Summer' 1984 (Shikosha) pl.53.
Collection
Accession Number
828-1894

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record createdOctober 24, 2003
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