Physical description

Rectangular fragment of red, cream and blue silk compound twill, depicting confronted peacocks and unicorns around a central palm tree, Arabic inscriptions in beaded cartouches at top and bottom

Place of Origin

Almeria (probably, made)
Spain (al-Andalus)

Date

1100-1150 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk, weft-faced compound twill. Dye samples of this textile were analysed as part of the project “Caracterización de las producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas” (“Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections”) (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval). Analysis was conducted by Enrique Parra at the Alfonso X El Sabio University, Madrid. The dyes were analysed through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), extracting threads with a thickness varying between 5 and 1mm by means of 100 µL of methanol/hydrochloric acid/water 1:2:1.

The results for this textile were as follows:
Light blue - Indigo
Dark blue - Indigo
Cream coloured - not detected

Marks and inscriptions

al-barakah al-kamilah
Perfect blessing

Dimensions

Length: 34 cm, Width: 24 cm

Object history note

Purchased from Monsieur Stanlislas Baron in 1894 for £ 46.13.9.

A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.

Acquired as part of a collection of textile fragments, from M. Stanislas Baron, for the price of 800 francs. A portion of the collection was purchased by the Manchester School of Art.

Neg. 34744.

Historical context note

A length of similar cloth is now in Paris (C L 12869) which was found in a 1258 context in the Church of St Sernin, Toulouse. The inscription belwo the peacock froms reads 'Perfect blessings' (Patricia Baker: Islamic Textiles, 1995:43)

Samples of coloured threads from this object have been taken and are being analysed as part of a collaboration between the V&A and the Spanish Research project "Caracterización de als producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas" ("Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections") (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval).

Descriptive line

Middle East, Textile. Silk lampas with a geometric pattern, south-east Spain (perhaps Granada), 1300-1400.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Sievernich, Gereon, and Budde, Hendrik, Europa und der Orient 800-1900 , Berlin, 1989. Catalogue of the exhibition, 28 May - 27 August, 1989. 923 p., ill. ISBN 3750048144. Catalogue entry 4/31 pp561-2, Ill. 88, p174.
Viollet-le-Duc. Dictionnare du Mobilier Francais. p.360.
Prisse d'Avennes, 'L'Art Arabe', Vol III pl.148.
'Textile Art Early Summer' 1984 (Shikosha) pl.53.

Labels and date

FRAGMENT OF SILK TWILL
Silk twill with peacocks
SPAIN (Andalusia); between 1100 and 1200 AD
A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343), now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material. [Used until 11/2003]

Production Note

A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.

Materials

Silk

Subjects depicted

Unicorns; Peacocks; Dogs; Palm trees

Categories

Islam; Textiles

Collection

Middle East Section