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Woven Silk

1100-1150 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Rectangular fragment of red, cream and blue silk compound twill, depicting confronted peacocks and unicorns around a central palm tree, Arabic inscriptions in beaded cartouches at top and bottom

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, weft-faced compound twill. Dye samples of this textile were analysed as part of the project “Caracterización de las producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas” (“Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections”) (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval). Analysis was conducted by Enrique Parra at the Alfonso X El Sabio University, Madrid. The dyes were analysed through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), extracting threads with a thickness varying between 5 and 1mm by means of 100 µL of methanol/hydrochloric acid/water 1:2:1. The results for this textile were as follows: Light blue - Indigo Dark blue - Indigo Cream coloured - not detected
Brief description
Middle East, Textile. Silk lampas with a geometric pattern, south-east Spain (perhaps Granada), 1300-1400.
Physical description
Rectangular fragment of red, cream and blue silk compound twill, depicting confronted peacocks and unicorns around a central palm tree, Arabic inscriptions in beaded cartouches at top and bottom
Dimensions
  • Length: 34cm
  • Width: 24cm
Marks and inscriptions
Translation
Perfect blessing
Transliteration
al-barakah al-kamilah
Gallery label
(Used until 11/2003)
FRAGMENT OF SILK TWILL
Silk twill with peacocks
SPAIN (Andalusia); between 1100 and 1200 AD
A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343), now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.
Object history
Purchased from Monsieur Stanlislas Baron in 1894 for £ 46.13.9.

A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.

Acquired as part of a collection of textile fragments, from M. Stanislas Baron, for the price of 800 francs. A portion of the collection was purchased by the Manchester School of Art.

Neg. 34744.
Historical context
A length of similar cloth is now in Paris (C L 12869) which was found in a 1258 context in the Church of St Sernin, Toulouse. The inscription belwo the peacock froms reads 'Perfect blessings' (Patricia Baker: Islamic Textiles, 1995:43)

Samples of coloured threads from this object have been taken and are being analysed as part of a collaboration between the V&A and the Spanish Research project "Caracterización de als producciones textiles de la Antigüedad Tardía y Edad Media temprana: tejidos coptos, sasánidas, bizantinos e hispanomusulmanes en las colecciones públicas españolas" ("Characterization of Late Antique and Early Medieval textile production: Coptic, Sasanian, Byzantine and Spanish Muslim textiles in Spanish national collections") (HAR2008-04161) directed by Dr Laura Rodríguez Peinado, Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Dpt. de Historia del Arte I (Medieval).
Production
A fragmentary cope said to have belonged to Robert of Anjou (d.1343) now in the Church of St. Sernin, Toulouse, is of the same material.
Subjects depicted
Bibliographic references
  • Sievernich, Gereon, and Budde, Hendrik, Europa und der Orient 800-1900 , Berlin, 1989. Catalogue of the exhibition, 28 May - 27 August, 1989. 923 p., ill. ISBN 3750048144. Catalogue entry 4/31 pp561-2, Ill. 88, p174.
  • Viollet-le-Duc. Dictionnare du Mobilier Francais. p.360.
  • Prisse d'Avennes, 'L'Art Arabe', Vol III pl.148.
  • 'Textile Art Early Summer' 1984 (Shikosha) pl.53.
  • Mariam Rosser-Owen, Islamic Arts from Spain, London, 2010, p.21.
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
828-1894

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Record createdOctober 24, 2003
Record URL
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