Physical description
Evening dress of brocaded silk with a design of scattered and semi-naturalistic orchids woven in oyster, pale-pink and green silk enriched with gold threads. It has a heart shaped fitted bodice with two simple shoulder straps. The skirt is semi-full with a small train at the back.
It is made of two layers of fine silk which are separate except where they are joined together to form the design. As well as silk each one is woven also with gold thread which is in the bottom layer of the fabric except when it comes to the surface with the design.
Place of Origin
London, England (made)
Date
1953 (made)
Artist/maker
John Cavanagh, born 1914 - died 2003 (designer)
Oliver Hilary Sambourne Messel, born 1904 - died 1978 (textiles, designer)
Sekers Fabrics Ltd. (textiles, manufacturer)
Materials and Techniques
Brocaded silk
Dimensions
Circumference: 70 cm waist, Circumference: 88 cm bust, Diameter: 81 cm footprint, Length: 130 cm skirt with train, Length: 110 cm skirt front, Weight: 2.04 kg
Object history note
Worn and given by Lady Cornwallis.
Esme Ethel Alice d'Beaumont (1901-1969) is the daughter of Captian Montmorency d'Beaumont. She married, firstly, Major Sir Robert James Milo Walker, 4 Bt., on 23 January 1923. She married, secondly, Sir Wykeham Stanley Cornwallis (1892-1982), 2nd Baron Cornwallis on 26 February 1948. Given by the 3rd Lord and Lady Cornwallis.
This dress was ordered for the Coronation celebrations of June 1953, and this dress formed part of John Cavanagh's spring/summer 1953 (Coronation collection).
Lady Cornwallis also wore T.292-1982.
Historical context note
The Sekers company made a special fabric for Oliver Messel's designs (called ‘Jewels’, ‘Acorn', ‘Scattered Leaves’, ‘Juliet’, Miniver’, and ‘Twigs’). It is made of two layers of fine silk which are separate except where they are joined together to form the design. As well as silk each one is woven also with gold thread which is in the bottom layer of the fabric except when it comes to the surface with the design.
Descriptive line
Evening dress 'Coronation' of brocaded silk, designed by John Cavanagh, London, 1953, with fabric designed by Oliver Messel and made by Sekers Fabrics Ltd.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
de la Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947-1997. Victoria and Albert Publications, London, 1997, p. 69.
For further details on the dress
Vogue (UK) April 1953, p.132-2
For further details about Oliver Messel
Archive of Art and Design, V&A. John French Archive: JF 1130
John French photographs of a similar dress from the same collection, taken for West Cumberland Silk Mills (Sekers)
V&A's Cavanagh Archive
Fabric samples, sample charts, and watercolour sketch of similar dress.
Letter on loan to the V&A for The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 from the Sekers family, to Lady Jean Rankin, the Queen's lady in waiting.
11 February 1953
Dear Lady Jean, Mr Sekers is in Switzerland at the moment or he would himself be writing this letter.
We have sent to you our collection of fabrics and I would just like to explain the most interesting points about it.
There are a number of fabrics designed by Oliver Messel. Mr. Sekers and Mr. Messel have known each other for some time, indeed they have worked together for Glyndebourne, but this is the first time that Mr. Messel has actually designed fabrics to be reproduced on a loom. In fact, when Mr, Sekers asked him him he would make the designs, his firs reaction was to say that he knew nothing of any of the technicalities which normally go with textile designing.
The designs themselves were so delicate and unusual that we made a special fabric for them - two layers of fine silk which are quite separate expect where they are actually joined together to form the design. As well as in silk each one is woven also with gold thread which in the bottom layer of the fabric when it comes to the surface with the design.
This double weaving technique not only does justice to Mr. Messel's designs but also makes it possible to achieve subtle and interesting colours.
The colours are absolutely inter-changeable, so if there is a colour in 'Jewels' that is particularly liked, it can be woven also in 'Acorn, 'Scattered Leaves', 'Juliet', Miniver', and 'Twigs'.
The other fabrics in the collection are all pure silk, or a mixture of silk and mohair, alpaca, wool, worsted or gold. It is quite a feature of the range, this mixture of yarns. They are all called into used for their different qualities. Mohair has a delicate sheen, wool has its softness and warmth of handle, the alpaca is in one quality only, Langulval mixed with silk, and only in its natural colour.
I know that Mr. Sekers would be very honoured if Her Majesty the Queen Mother and Her Majesty the Queen would choose from the collection any of the fabrics which they like. We will arrange for them to be produced immediately.
Yours sincerely,
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), pp.110-1 and pl.4.17-4.20
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1997-31/12/1997)
Labels and date
John Cavanagh catered for a discerning clientele producing refined couture in luxurious fabrics. This regal evening dress for Lady Cornwallis was made in a rich brocade scattered with semi-naturalistic orchids in subtle shades of oyster, pale pink and green, sparkling with gold threads. The gown has a fitted low-cut bodice and a trained back. [1997]
Evening dress with sketch and chart
John Cavanagh (1914-2004)
London
1953 spring/summer Coronation Collection
Couturiers worked from sketches and textile samples to create new designs. This Cavanagh sketch shows his initial concept for an evening dress. As the working chart shows, it became no. 43 in his spring collection in 1953. The silk was made in England by the innovative textile firm West Cumberland Mills. Its Hungarian-born owner, Miki Sekers, commissioned the design from the stage designer Oliver Messel.
1. Sketch
Given by John Cavanagh
V&A: Cavanagh Archive
2. Evening gown
Silk brocade designed by Oliver Messel for West Cumberland Mills (Sekers)
Given by Lady Cornwallis, and worn by her to the Coronation celebrations
V&A: T.294-1984
3. Paper charts with textile samples
Given by John Cavanagh
V&A: Cavanagh Archive
4. Letter to Buckingham Palace
Lent by the Sekers family [22/09/2007]
Production Note
Spring/summer 1953
Attribution note: Made for the Coronation, 1953
Reason For Production: Commission
Materials
Silk (textile)
Techniques
Brocaded
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Royalty; Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
