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Not currently on display at the V&A

Dress

1947 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Hardy Amies designed this cotton day dress at the end of the Second World War. The dress has magyar sleeves (in which the armhole and upper arm are cut very wide, narrowing to the elbow and wrist), a tightly fitted bodice and a dropped waist. The circular skirt is embellished with a fashionable bustle bow. The cotton fabric was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. The British government actively promoted the cotton industry during the War, forming the influential Cotton Board in 1940. The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, whose designers included Amies, worked closely with the Board to create stylish fashions in British cottons. This dress, with its extravagantly full skirt, shows the influence of the ‘New Look’, the luxurious, post-War style created French couturier Christian Dior which used yards of fabric to achieve a curvaceous, full-skirted silhouette.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Printed cotton
Brief description
Day dress of printed cotton, made by Edwin Hardy Amies, Great Britain, 1947
Physical description
Cotton day dress with magyar sleeves (in which the armhole and upper arm are cut very wide, narrowing to the elbow and wrist), a tightly fitted bodice and a dropped waist. The circular skirt is embellished with a fashionable bustle bow. Brown and white cotton with a bold circular print.
Dimensions
  • Waist circumference: 64cm
  • Bust circumference: 88cm
  • Footprint diameter: 70cm
Stockman mannequin size 38
Gallery label
  • This stylish day dress has magyar sleeves and a tightly fitted bodice with a dropped waist. The circular skirt is embellished by a fashionable bustle bow. The cotton fabric was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. The government actively promoted the cotton industry during World War II, forming the influential Cotton Board in 1940. The Incorporated Society of LondonFashion Designers. whose 'top ten' designers included Hardy Amies, worked closely with the Board to create stylish fashions in British cottons.(06/03/1997)
  • Dress Hardy Amies (1909-2003) London 1947 The fabric was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. During the war the Board of Trade actively promoted the cotton industry, working closely with the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, whose 'top ten' included Hardy Amies. The bustle bow is a device to add volume with the minimum of fabric. [55 words] Printed cotton Given by Enid Fennemore V&A: T.236-1984(22/09/2007)
  • DAY DRESS English, Hardy Amies, 1945 Printed figured cotton The dress is cut with magyar sleeves and a tightly fitted bodice with a dropped waist and circular skirt with four panels. The full skirt is complemented by a fashionable bustle bow. The fabric was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. At the beginning of the Second World War the goverrnment was anxious to promote the cotton industry and encourage export of fashionable designs. This led to the creation of the Cotton Board in 1940 followed in 1942 by the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers. Hardy Amies was one of the original 'Top Ten' designers invited to join the society. A dress by Hardy Amies similar to this was shown at the Colour Design and Style Centre, Manchester, in 1942 and is now in the Gallery of English Costime, Platt Hall, Manchester. Worn and given by Mrs E Fennemore T.236-1984
Credit line
Worn and given by Mrs Enid Fennemore
Object history
The cotton fabric of this dress was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. It was worn by the donor.
Historical context
The government actively promoted the cotton industry during World War II, forming the influential Cotton Board in 1940. The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, whose 'top ten' designers included Hardy Amies, worked closely with the Board to create stylish fashions in British cottons to re-build the British textile industry following the war.
Summary
Hardy Amies designed this cotton day dress at the end of the Second World War. The dress has magyar sleeves (in which the armhole and upper arm are cut very wide, narrowing to the elbow and wrist), a tightly fitted bodice and a dropped waist. The circular skirt is embellished with a fashionable bustle bow. The cotton fabric was made in Manchester for export to the West African market. The British government actively promoted the cotton industry during the War, forming the influential Cotton Board in 1940. The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, whose designers included Amies, worked closely with the Board to create stylish fashions in British cottons. This dress, with its extravagantly full skirt, shows the influence of the ‘New Look’, the luxurious, post-War style created French couturier Christian Dior which used yards of fabric to achieve a curvaceous, full-skirted silhouette.
Bibliographic reference
De La Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947-1997. London: V&A Publications, 1997.
Collection
Accession number
T.236-1984

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Record createdAugust 21, 2003
Record URL
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