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Wedding dress

Wedding dress

  • Place of origin:

    Lewes (made)
    China (some textiles, made)
    India (some textiles, made)

  • Date:

    1993 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Akers- Douglas, Julian, born 1950 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Smocked silk dupioni, satin and habotai with beads and ribbons

  • Credit Line:

    Given by the designer

  • Museum number:

    T.528-1993

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Wedding dress of smocked silk Dupion, satin and habotai with glass and metal beads and ribbon decoration.

Place of Origin

Lewes (made)
China (some textiles, made)
India (some textiles, made)

Date

1993 (made)

Artist/maker

Akers- Douglas, Julian, born 1950 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Smocked silk dupioni, satin and habotai with beads and ribbons

Object history note

Registered File number 1993/1810.

Historical context note

Julian Akers-Douglas opened her womenswear business in 1984. It was a small industry based in East Hoathly, Lewes, East Sussex, specialising in individually handmade garments and fine hand-smocking. In her catalogue for 1992-93, the designer stated that smocking was her hallmark, and that she only used the best natural silks, soft wools and fine cotton lawn. She cited historical fashions as a great influence on her work. Each garment was handmade to order by a small team of skilled needlewomen. Julian Akers-Douglas, who was entirely self-taught as a designer, developed her own unique smocking pattern, which she called the 'Barham', and this was used alongside other traditional patterns and smocking techniques. Most of the garments typically took 28 days to be made and delivered (through mail order), though the Barham smocked dress could take 35 days.

Descriptive line

Wedding dress, smocked silk dupioni, satin and habotai with beads and ribbons, designed by Mrs Julian Akers Douglas, made in East Hoathly, Lewes, East Sussex, 1993.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

De la Haye, Amy (ed.). The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947- 1997. London, England: V&A Publications, 1997.

Labels and date

The design of this wedding dress was informed by rural smocks and the square cut of ethnographic clothing. The beadwork and pendants suspended from fine ribbon were designed to harmonise with the Chinese and Indian cream- coloured silks. [1997]

Production Note

Made in East Hoathly, Lewes, East Sussex

Materials

Silk; Beads; Ribbons

Techniques

Smocking; Beading; Satin weave

Categories

Fashion; Marriage; Women's clothes; Textiles; Embroidery

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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