Doll's Undress Gown
1690-1700 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Object Type
The style of this nightgown derives from the Japanese kimono. Kimonos first appeared in Western Europe in the 1650s as annual gifts from the Japanese shoguns (hereditary commanders-in-chief of the Japanese army) to members of the Dutch East India Company. They became popular garments in Europe and the demand for them soon outstripped the supply from Japan. Both the Dutch and English East India companies began importing kimonos from India, made of the printed cottons available there.
Materials & Techniques
Lord Clapham's nightgown is very similar to the Japanese style of the kimono. It is hand-sewn of salmon-pink satin with a floral pattern in purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. The silk is French or Italian in origin, probably woven about 1680. The nightgown is lined with a patterned blue Chinese export silk, which forms the cuffs and facings.
Ownership & Use
Various styles of informal gown had been in use in England since the 16th century. In the late 17th century men wore westernised versions of the kimono as informal gowns over a shirt and breeches. This ensemble would be worn when getting up in the morning and before dressing in the formal clothes required for public activities. At the end of the day, many men removed their coats and waistcoats, and donned a nightgown for relaxing in private at home.
The style of this nightgown derives from the Japanese kimono. Kimonos first appeared in Western Europe in the 1650s as annual gifts from the Japanese shoguns (hereditary commanders-in-chief of the Japanese army) to members of the Dutch East India Company. They became popular garments in Europe and the demand for them soon outstripped the supply from Japan. Both the Dutch and English East India companies began importing kimonos from India, made of the printed cottons available there.
Materials & Techniques
Lord Clapham's nightgown is very similar to the Japanese style of the kimono. It is hand-sewn of salmon-pink satin with a floral pattern in purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. The silk is French or Italian in origin, probably woven about 1680. The nightgown is lined with a patterned blue Chinese export silk, which forms the cuffs and facings.
Ownership & Use
Various styles of informal gown had been in use in England since the 16th century. In the late 17th century men wore westernised versions of the kimono as informal gowns over a shirt and breeches. This ensemble would be worn when getting up in the morning and before dressing in the formal clothes required for public activities. At the end of the day, many men removed their coats and waistcoats, and donned a nightgown for relaxing in private at home.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silk lined with figured silk |
| Brief description | Doll's undress gown, London, 1690-1700 of drawloom-woven satin, Italian or French c1680. |
| Physical description | Doll's undress gown (banyan) of a kimono-style in salmon pink silk with a floral pattern in purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. It is lined with a figured blue Chinese export silk, which forms the cuffs and robings. |
| Dimensions |
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| Gallery label | British Galleries:
These dolls were named 'Lord and Lady' of the family home in Clapham, London by their owners, the Cockerell family. The outfits of the dolls are perfect miniatures of London fashions 1690-1700. Lord Clapham's coat, waistcoat and close-fitting breeches demonstrate the newly fashionable three-piece suit. At this period the suit was not expected to match. The neck-cloth is worn in fashionable, military style.
Doll of wood and wool, face gessoed and painted, wig of human hair; linen shirt; breeches of silver tissue lined with white flannel; waistcoat of silver tissue lined with silk; wool coat, lined with silk and trimmed with silver braid; muslin neckcloth; silk stockings; leather shoes with brass buckles; felt hat(27/03/2003) |
| Credit line | Purchased by public subscription |
| Object history | The doll and its partner are thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of Samuel Pepys. The daughter of Pepys' nephew, John Jackson (son of his sister, Pauline) married a Cockerell. The doll and its partner were named 'Lord' and 'Lady' of the family home in Clapham. Historical significance: The doll and its partner are costume documents; their clothes being, in style, cut and material, perfect miniatures of the fashions of the late 17th century. Their importance is underlined by the almost total lack of other good visual material for this period, whether pictorial or in the form of surviving garments. In particular, the survival of accessories and the informal garments is extremely rare. |
| Historical context | Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive. It is most unlikely that these particular examples were the playthings of children. Their production is of a high quality, almost all the accessories survive and there is little wear and tear on the dolls and their garments. They were most probably purchased for the amusement of adults, and as a decorative accessory to a home. |
| Summary | Object Type The style of this nightgown derives from the Japanese kimono. Kimonos first appeared in Western Europe in the 1650s as annual gifts from the Japanese shoguns (hereditary commanders-in-chief of the Japanese army) to members of the Dutch East India Company. They became popular garments in Europe and the demand for them soon outstripped the supply from Japan. Both the Dutch and English East India companies began importing kimonos from India, made of the printed cottons available there. Materials & Techniques Lord Clapham's nightgown is very similar to the Japanese style of the kimono. It is hand-sewn of salmon-pink satin with a floral pattern in purple, pale blue, emerald green, lime green, orange and deep pink. The silk is French or Italian in origin, probably woven about 1680. The nightgown is lined with a patterned blue Chinese export silk, which forms the cuffs and facings. Ownership & Use Various styles of informal gown had been in use in England since the 16th century. In the late 17th century men wore westernised versions of the kimono as informal gowns over a shirt and breeches. This ensemble would be worn when getting up in the morning and before dressing in the formal clothes required for public activities. At the end of the day, many men removed their coats and waistcoats, and donned a nightgown for relaxing in private at home. |
| Associated object | T.846-1974 (Object) |
| Bibliographic reference | Hillier, Mary, Pollock's Dictionary of English Dolls, London: Robert Hale Ltd, 1982, 50-51, 202pp. ill |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.847N-1974 |
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| Record created | August 11, 2003 |
| Record URL |
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