- Place of origin:
- Materials and Techniques:
Silk damask lined with silk taffeta
- Credit Line:
Purchased by public subscription
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
This mantua was made for a doll, known as Lady Clapham, that is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of the diarist Samuel Pepys (1633-1703). The daughter of Pepys's nephew John Jackson (the son of his sister Pauline) married a Cockerell, who had a family home in Clapham, south London.
Designs & Designing
Lady Clapham offers a fine example of both formal and informal dress for a wealthy woman in the 1690s (Museum nos. T.846&A to Y-1974). Her formal outfit includes a mantua (gown) and petticoat, while her informal dress is represented by the nightgown (a dressing gown rather than a garment worn to bed) and petticoat. Accessories such as the stockings, cap and chemise (a body garment) are very valuable since very few items from such an early period survive in museum collections. Equally important is the demonstration of how these clothes were worn together.
Ownership & Use
Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive, due to the wear and tear they usually undergo. The high quality of Lady Clapham and her clothes indicates that she would have been expensive. There is little evidence of use, which suggests that she was admired by adults rather than played with by children.
Doll's mantua of ivory Chinese export silk damask with a train at the back. The train is lined and faced with self-patterned pink silk taffeta with a self-coloured woven pattern which also forms the robing and turn back cuffs. The mantua is T-shaped with a sack back and a gore from the waist to hem at each side. The mantua has a double box pleat at the back and wide three-quarter length sleeves. A cord of metal braid stitched inside the waist, attached to a gilt thread metal button attached to each hip holds the mantua open over the petticoat.
Place of Origin
Materials and Techniques
Silk damask lined with silk taffeta
Length: 64.7 cm approx.
Object history note
The doll is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of Samuel Pepys. The daughter of Pepys' nephew John Jackson(son of his sister, Pauline) married a Cockerell. The doll and its partner were named 'Lord' and 'Lady' of the family home in Clapham.
Historical significance: The doll and its partner are costume documents; their clothes being, in style, cut and material, perfect miniatures of the fashions of the late 17th century. Their importance is underlined by the almost total lack of other good visual source material for this period, whether pictorial or in the form of surviving garments. In particular the survival of accessories and the informal garments is extremely rare.
Historical context note
Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive. It is most unlikely that these particular examples were the playthings of children. Their production is of a high quality; almost all the accessories survive and there is little wear and tear on the dolls and their garments. The dolls were most probably purchased for the amusement of adults, and as a decorative accessory to a home.
Doll's mantua of silk damask lined with silk taffeta, London 1690-1700
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Hillier, Mary, Pollock's Dictionary of English Dolls, London: Robert Hale Ltd., 1982, 51, 202pp. ill
Labels and date
These dolls were probably made for the amusement of adults at home, as were dolls' houses at this time. They were named 'Lord and Lady' of the family home in Clapham, London by their owners, the Cockerell family. The outfits of the dolls are perfect miniatures of London fashions of 1690 and 1700. She wears a mantua (gown) of Chinese silk over stays (a stiff corset), with an under-wired cap and high-heeled shoes. [27/03/2003]
Silver-gilt thread; Silk (textile); Braid
Hand sewing; Braiding
Dolls & Toys; British Galleries; Textiles; Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project
Textiles and Fashion Collection