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Ensemble - Plaza

Plaza

  • Object:

    Ensemble

  • Place of origin:

    London (made)

  • Date:

    ca .1972 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Ross, Ritva, born 1941 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Linen and acrylic machine knit and machine sewn

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Nancy Kaye

  • Museum number:

    T.75:1, 2-2003

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Ritva and Mike Ross were part of the vibrant art, fashion and music scene of ‘60s and ‘70s London and they produced some of the most innovative knitwear of the period. Mike settled there after leaving the USA, attended a non-diploma course at the RCA in 1963-4, while Ritva came from Helsinki, and went to the London School of Printing. She later became a model, and worked at Jane & Jane where Jean Muir was the designer. Ritva started her self-named company with Mike Ross in 1966, wholesaling to boutiques such as Annacat, Browns, and Countdown on the Kings Road.

Ritva, a self-taught knitter, designed and made samples of women's and children's wear. Her body-hugging garments included mini-dresses, skirts and even jumpsuits and her work was featured in magazines such as Nova, Harpers & Queen, and Life. Ritva knitwear used a variety of stitches including crochet, and different yarns: wool, silk, acrylic, in a range of colours. These were imported from France where they were produced in richer colours than those available in Britain. Outworkers knitted the garments using domestic knitting machines, and all were hand-finished in the Ritva workroom.

Mike began ‘The Ritva Man’ label in 1969, designing sweaters for his Hyde Park baseball team of American ex-pats. These ‘Home Run’ and ‘Strike Zone’ sweaters included appliquéd motifs, and lower sleeves of a different colour, inspired by the layered shirts worn by baseball players. After an article by Molly Parkin of The Times, the sweaters became fashion items in men’s boutiques like Blades and Michael John.

In 1971 Mike Ross asked artists Elizabeth Frink, David Hockney, Patrick Hughes and Allen Jones to design motifs for the first limited edition 'Artist Collection'. The sweaters incorporated an embroidered appliqué, translated from the original design under the guidance and approval of each artist in collaboration with Mike Ross. The sweaters were expensive at £40, or £782 today (based on average earnings, see www.measuringworth.com, accessed 20.7.12). Perspex box frames were also available so sweaters could be displayed when not being worn. Mike Ross worked with four other artists - Patrick Caulfield, Antony Donaldson, Ken Price and Richard Smith - to produce a second series in 1972, the same year that the Ritva shop opened at 8 Hollywood Road, off Fulham Road.

Mike Ross’s film and record business contacts lead to many sweater designs for films such as Clockwork Orange (1971) and The Shining (1980). The Rolling Stones, Simon and Garfunkel and The Doobie Brothers all had Ritva sweaters made in support of album tours. Although these were designed primarily as menswear, they had unisex appeal and were ordered and worn by celebrities such as Brit Eckland, Raquel Welch and John Lennon and Yoko Ono. The company closed in 1980.

Physical description

An ensemble of skirt and top machine knit on a home knitting machine in ivory linen and acrylic

Place of Origin

London (made)

Date

ca .1972 (made)

Artist/maker

Ross, Ritva, born 1941 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Linen and acrylic machine knit and machine sewn

Object history note

Bought and worn by Nancy Kaye, cousin of Mike Ross, one of the partnership of Ritva Knitwear

Materials

Linen; Acrylic

Techniques

Machine knitting; Machine sewing

Categories

Clothing; Fashion; Women's clothes; Knitting

Production Type

Ready to wear

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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