Multi-strand necklace (lazem) of plain and filigree silver beads, Yemen, 1850-1900.

Necklace consisting of five rows of beads with a rectangular spacer in the centre, keeping the rows apart, and a triangular terminal at each end. The beads on the five rows are of three kinds: smooth silver beads, knobbly beads made from pyramids of granules soldered together, and open filigree beads. The spacer and terminals are made of plain sheet silver with filigree patterns applied on the front. The central spacer has a tiny open filigree pendant shaped like a cylindrical amulet case hanging from its lower edge, with two flat filigree pendants (originally three), ending in pendent balls, hanging from that. There are four leaf-shaped filigree pendants hanging from the lowest row of the necklace, each of which has three loops for further pendants, which are missing, on its lower edge. The necklace is strung on five strands of natural cotton, which are tied and cut off as they emerge from the terminals.

In the 19th century, until their final exodus to Israel in the 1950s, Jewish goldsmiths made most of the silver jewellery in the Yemen. They were particularly renowned for the quality of their filigree work, which was worn and appreciated as much by Muslim as by Jewish women.

This type of necklace, called a lazem, is one of the traditional styles made by the Jewish goldsmiths. Its main distinguishing feature was a pendent cylindrical amulet case, but this has been reduced to barely more than a decorative element in this piece. The silver beads show the full range used in the Yemen. Smooth silver beads and open filigree beads are found in many places, but the little knobbly beads, made from granules soldered together in pyramids, are one of the most characteristic elements of Yemeni jewellery, and are not found anywhere else.

M.302-1910