Multi-strand necklace (lazem) of silver-gilt filigree and coral beads with a pendent amulet case, Yemen, 1850-1900

Necklace consisting of six rows of beads with a rectangular spacer in the centre, keeping the rows apart, and a triangular terminal at each end. The beads on the six rows alternate between coral and knobbly silver beads made from pyramids of granules soldered together. On the lowest row half the silver beads have been replaced by open filigree beads with a loop on their lower side for pendants. The spacer and terminals are made of plain sheet silver with filigree patterns applied on the front. The central spacer has a pendent cylindrical amulet case hanging from its lower edge, with three further filigree pendants hanging from that. Each of the filigree beads on the lowest strand of the necklace also has a flat heart-shaped filigree pendant. The necklace is strung on six strands of natural cotton, which are braided together as they emerge from the terminals to form a thick cord.

In the 19th century, until their final exodus to Israel in the 1950s, Jewish goldsmiths made most of the silver jewellery in the Yemen. They were particularly renowned for the quality of their filigree work, which was worn and appreciated as much by Muslim as by Jewish women.

This necklace, called a lazem, has a pendent amulet case in its centre. The silver beads between the pieces of coral are typical of Yemeni jewellery. They are made of granules soldered together in pyramids, called tut, because they resemble mulberry berries. The lengths of braided cotton at the ends of the necklace are also typical. The original owner saw no need to extend the expensive silver and coral work behind her head, where it could not be seen.

M.298-1910