Not currently on display at the V&A

Bangles

Pair of Bracelets
1850-1880
Place of origin

Turkoman jewellery is one of the most distinctive and easily recognisable styles of traditional jewellery. It was worn by the nomadic tribes of Central Asia, in the present region of Turkmenistan and parts of northern Iran and Afghanistan. Although individual pieces rarely date from any earlier than the 19th century, many of the designs and symbols used are much older, often pre-Islamic in origin.

Different tribes preferred different techniques and styles of decoration. These penannular bracelets, decorated with sinuous patterns picked out with fire-gilding and set with flat cornelians, are typical of the jewellery worn by the Teke. Although they appear solid they are in fact made of thin sheets of silver filled with a kind of mastic or resin. They were traditionally always worn in pairs, one on each arm. The word bilezik simply means a ring for the wrist – the points on each end are colloquially known as snake’s heads.

They were acquired in Turkestan in 1884-5, during an Anglo-Russian conference to define the north-west frontier of Afghanistan, and were given to the Museum in 1900.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Bracelet
  • Bracelet
Titles
  • Bangles
  • Bilezik
Materials and techniques
Engraved silver, partly gilded, set with carnelians
Brief description
Pair of silver penannular bracelets (bilezik), partly gilded and set with carnelians, Turkestan, 1850-1880.
Physical description
Pair of heavy silver penannular bracelets set with cornelians. Each bracelet has a plain ridge along its outer edges which is repeated along the centre, dividing the bracelet into two flat horizontal fields. The flat fields between the ridges are each decorated with an abstract curving design, partly gilded, and three flat oval cornelians in closed mounts. At each end the bracelet has 5 solid silver points shaped like buds.
Dimensions
  • Diameter: 6.5cm
  • Width: 5.5cm
Object history
Letter in register:
'My husband bought the little cap [739-1900], breast ornament [736-1900] & head dress [735-1900], with large ear-rings [737&A-1900, 738&A-1900] from Turkestan, when with Sir Peter Lumsden in 1884 & 5. Also heavy bracelets [733&A-1900]. The shawl fastener [732-1900] & brooch [731-1900], are of Kabyle workmanship & I brought them from Algiers. Kabyle jewelry will be known by having coral & turquoise settings - Turkestan, by cornelian in silver'
Summary
Turkoman jewellery is one of the most distinctive and easily recognisable styles of traditional jewellery. It was worn by the nomadic tribes of Central Asia, in the present region of Turkmenistan and parts of northern Iran and Afghanistan. Although individual pieces rarely date from any earlier than the 19th century, many of the designs and symbols used are much older, often pre-Islamic in origin.

Different tribes preferred different techniques and styles of decoration. These penannular bracelets, decorated with sinuous patterns picked out with fire-gilding and set with flat cornelians, are typical of the jewellery worn by the Teke. Although they appear solid they are in fact made of thin sheets of silver filled with a kind of mastic or resin. They were traditionally always worn in pairs, one on each arm. The word bilezik simply means a ring for the wrist – the points on each end are colloquially known as snake’s heads.

They were acquired in Turkestan in 1884-5, during an Anglo-Russian conference to define the north-west frontier of Afghanistan, and were given to the Museum in 1900.
Collection
Accession number
733&A-1900

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Record createdApril 2, 2003
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