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Pattern book

Pattern book

  • Place of origin:

    Lyon (made)

  • Date:

    1920-1921 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Bianchini-Férier (manufacturer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Woven silk

  • Museum number:

    T.219-1992

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

These three fabrics are samples from a Bianchini-Férier pattern book covering the period 1920-1921. Sample 15291, called ‘En Vacances’, was designed by Alberto-Fabio Lorenzi. It is dated 17/03/1921 (17 March 1921). The design, a detail of a larger repeat, is of a child skipping in a garden. Lorenzi was also a graphic artist known for his fashion plates.

Sample 15292, called ‘Venise fête de nuit’, was designed by Georges Barbier on 23/03/1921 (23 March 1921). It shows figures playing musical instruments on board gondolas with the buildings of Venice in the background. Barbier was also a fashion illustrator.

The name of the designer of sample 15240 is unknown. It shows a biplane among clouds.

The Lyon-based silk manufacturer Bianchini-Férier was known for its innovative and lively fabrics in bright colours. In 1909 Charles Bianchini, one of the partners in the firm, had visited Vienna, a leading city for textile design. He subsequently established an office in Paris. This enabled him to cultivate good relations with the top Parisian couturiers, such as Lanvin, Patou and Poiret, who all bought dress fabrics from him. He also employed chic illustrators like Paul Iribe (1883-1935), Charles Martin (1848-1934) and Georges Barbier (1882-1932) to design textiles for the firm.

Physical description

Pattern book of samples. The designs are numbered 15200-15299.
The following is a list, by serial number, of the most significant or easily identifiable designs in the pattern book:
15219 Les Arums designed by Raoul Dufy 25/10/1920. Toile façonnée. Lilies in bright rose pink on a purple ground.
15221 Le Chèvre du Thibet designed by Raoul Dufy 27/10/1920. Satin. Goat in rusty orange and brown on a bright green ground.
15229 Le Quadrige designed by Raoul Dufy 29/10/1920. Satin. Neo-classical figures in a chariot pulled by two rearing horses. As this is only a fragment of the repeat, the figures are headless. In white and dark brown on a deep yellow ground.
15231 Resembles Dufy turtles, but the designer's name is not mentioned.
15263 Designed by Alberto-Fabio Lorenzi 11/12/1920. Satin with metal. Gold and red phoenix surrounded by Chinese style clouds in gold lamé on red and black.
15265 La Promenade en bois designed by Alberto-Fabio Lorenzi 13/12/1920. Satin. Fashionably clad women surrounded by flowers in urns and dogs chasing each other in purplish brown on a bright orange ground.
15278 Le Cortège d'Orphée designed by Raoul Dufy 17/01/1921. Three neo-classical figures in black and yellow on a deep orange ground. As this is only a fragement of the repeat, the figures are missing their legs.
15278 Resembles a Lorenzi dove, but the designer's name is not mentioned.
15291 En Vacances designed by Alberto-Fabio Lorenzi 17/03/1921. Satin. Child skipping in a garden, detail of a larger repeat in reddish purple on bluish purple.
15292 Venise fête de nuit designed by Georges Barbier 23/03/1921. Figures playing harps, guitars and double basses on board gondolas rowed by gondoliers, with the buildings of Venice in the background. In bright pink, yellow, blue and dark purple on a purple ground.
15240 Biplane among the clouds in black and brown.

Place of Origin

Lyon (made)

Date

1920-1921 (made)

Artist/maker

Bianchini-Férier (manufacturer)

Materials and Techniques

Woven silk

Dimensions

Length: 24 cm 15292, Width: 22 cm 15292, Length: 24 cm 15291, Width: 17.5 cm 15291, Length: 17 cm 15240, Width: 14 cm 15240, Width: 32 cm book 0.5cm, Length: 43 cm book 0.5, Thickness: 10 cm book 0.5cm, Weight: 3.54 kg book

Object history note

Purchased. Registered File number 1992/1253.

Descriptive line

Pattern book of woven silk samples, Bianchini-Férier, Lyon, 1920-1921

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Samuels, Charlotte. Art Deco Textiles. London: V&A Publications, 2003. Plates 19-21.

Materials

Silk (textile)

Techniques

Weaving

Subjects depicted

Animals; Buildings; People

Categories

Fashion; Textiles; Pattern books

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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