Not currently on display at the V&A

Belt

Belt
1800-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Elaborate belts were one of the oldest symbols of marriage in Europe. They survived in use with traditional costume in many regions up to the 19th century, but they were largely replaced by decorative clasps in most places in the Balkans during the Ottoman period. This heavy belt is one of the few exceptions. It was an important part of the jewellery of brides in the mountain regions around Bosnia and Herzegovina up to the 19th century, and its distinctive appearance and construction suggest that it may have very old roots in the area.

Like every item of traditional jewellery, it was imbued with hidden meanings. The belt itself represented the chastity of the bride, as well as hopes for her future health, fertility and good fortune. The carnelians were believed to help protect from evil spirits. The bride would have worn it first during the marriage ceremony, and afterwards throughout her married life on formal occasions. The decorative disc hanging at the right side was probably originally used to carry a knife, household utensils, or keys.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleBelt (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Leather belt covered with brass plates and white metal studs, and set with carnelians in gilded bronze mounts
Brief description
Large heavy leather belt decorated with brass plates and three rows of large flat carnelians, Bosnia Herzegovina, 1800-1899.
Physical description
Heavy leather belt covered with brass plaques and large oval carnelians. The belt itself is made from a long strip of leather, folded back on itself to form a double layer, with the space between the two layers filled with a separate strip of leather. The outside layer continues at the end of the belt to form a loose extension. The leather is wider at the front of the belt than at the back. The layers of leather are held together by a triple band of studs along the top and bottom borders of the belt. The front of the belt, between the bands of studs, is covered by a thin sheet of brass. There are 36 large flat oval carnelians, in gilt bronze mounts with pyramids of granules round the rim, attached to the brass plate in three rows of 12 stones each. The carnelian in the centre of the middle row is slightly larger and rounder than the others. The brass plate is decorated with lines of rocker engraving and pierced holes in groups of four between the carnelians. The narrower section at the back of the belt is covered by a row of 15 square brass plates which are placed side by side between the borders of studs. Each is decorated with a pierced geometric design and held in place by four large brass studs, one in each corner. The plate which is next to the section covered with carnelians at the front has a matching carnelian set in its centre. Plates 4-6, counting from the end of the belt, each have a rectangular loop for fastening attached to their centres by a brass stud. The section covered with carnelians has a brass loop at the end of each of the three rows, with a loose clasp, with a carnelian set in its centre and a hook at the back of the end, attached to the central loop. There is a loose brass disc, pierced and set with a carnelian, attached to the lower edge of the belt opposite the clasp.
Dimensions
  • Length: 135cm
Credit line
Gift of Miss A.E.L. Brander
Object history
Described as from Ragusa
Summary
Elaborate belts were one of the oldest symbols of marriage in Europe. They survived in use with traditional costume in many regions up to the 19th century, but they were largely replaced by decorative clasps in most places in the Balkans during the Ottoman period. This heavy belt is one of the few exceptions. It was an important part of the jewellery of brides in the mountain regions around Bosnia and Herzegovina up to the 19th century, and its distinctive appearance and construction suggest that it may have very old roots in the area.

Like every item of traditional jewellery, it was imbued with hidden meanings. The belt itself represented the chastity of the bride, as well as hopes for her future health, fertility and good fortune. The carnelians were believed to help protect from evil spirits. The bride would have worn it first during the marriage ceremony, and afterwards throughout her married life on formal occasions. The decorative disc hanging at the right side was probably originally used to carry a knife, household utensils, or keys.
Bibliographic reference
For examples of similar belts, see: Pantelic, Nikola, 'Traditional arts and crafts in Yugoslavia', Belgrade, 1984, p. 38 Vladic-Krstic, Dr Bratislava, 'Seoski Nakit u Bosni i Hercegovini u XIX i prvoj polovini xx veka', Belgrade, 1995, p.556 Bruck-Auffenberg, Natalie, 'Dalmatien und seine Volkskunst', Wien/Paris, Anton Schroll & co, Librairie Artistique A. Wagner, 1912, table X.2 Seiwert, Wolf-Dieter, 'Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Dr. Bir Collection', Arnoldsche Verlagsanstalt, 2010, p.19 Seiwert, Wolf-Dieter, 'Das Erbe der Antike. Traditioneller Schmuck und Volksglaube zwischen Orient und Okzident', Braunschweigisches Landesmuseum, 2001, p.144 Klever, Katrin & Ulrich, 'Exotischer Schmuck', Mosaik Verlag, Munich, 1977, p.143 There are also three similar belts in the British Museum, nos. Eu1967,01.1.a-b; Eu1914,06194a-b; and Eu1914,0619a, together with a very detailed description of their construction and use.
Collection
Accession number
M.368-1910

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Record createdMarch 28, 2003
Record URL
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