Not currently on display at the V&A

Saddle Cloth

1866 (made)
Artist/Maker

Object Type
Although described as a saddle cloth, this piece was never made up for use but was exhibited as an example of fine weaving from Ahmedabad in present-day Gujarat. It is woven in silk and metal-wrapped thread, a combination that was given the hybrid Anglo-Indian name of 'kincob'.

Design & Designing
This saddle-cloth is practically identical to one acquired from the Great Exhibition of 1851. This and other Indian textiles exhibited there greatly impressed contemporary arbiters of taste not only by their craftsmanship but also by their designs. The flat, stylised floral patterns were seen as examples of 'perfect taste' and were contrasted with the over-elaborate, quasi-naturalistic designs that were currently in favour in Victorian Britain.

Materials & Making
This type of luxury fabric was usually used for canopies, furnishings and horse or elephant trappings as it was too stiff and heavy for garments. Gujarat in western India, especially the weaving centres of Ahmedabad and Surat, was well known for cloth of this type. Nevertheless, the best-known centre of production was (and remains) Varanasi, formerly Benares, in northern India.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk and gold ground with supplementary weft design in coloured silks
Brief description
Textile
Dimensions
  • Height: 146.5cm
  • Width: 72.7cm
Dimensions checked: Measured; 26/01/1999 by sf
Gallery label
British Galleries: Indian woven textiles had a high reputation. The designer Owen Jones praised a similar piece shown at the Great Exhibition for its balance of form and colour. He said it was 'beyond the power of a European hand to copy'. This particular piece was probably made for a later exhibition, in Paris in 1867.(27/03/2003)
Object history
Made in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India. Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. 1880 Register Entry: [Case 26] '0680. KINCOB. Piece of, gold and colours; Ahmedabad. 6433'
Summary
Object Type
Although described as a saddle cloth, this piece was never made up for use but was exhibited as an example of fine weaving from Ahmedabad in present-day Gujarat. It is woven in silk and metal-wrapped thread, a combination that was given the hybrid Anglo-Indian name of 'kincob'.

Design & Designing
This saddle-cloth is practically identical to one acquired from the Great Exhibition of 1851. This and other Indian textiles exhibited there greatly impressed contemporary arbiters of taste not only by their craftsmanship but also by their designs. The flat, stylised floral patterns were seen as examples of 'perfect taste' and were contrasted with the over-elaborate, quasi-naturalistic designs that were currently in favour in Victorian Britain.

Materials & Making
This type of luxury fabric was usually used for canopies, furnishings and horse or elephant trappings as it was too stiff and heavy for garments. Gujarat in western India, especially the weaving centres of Ahmedabad and Surat, was well known for cloth of this type. Nevertheless, the best-known centre of production was (and remains) Varanasi, formerly Benares, in northern India.
Other number
6433 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
0680(IS)

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Record createdMarch 28, 2003
Record URL
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