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THE SOTTANELLO

Vest
1851 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
This long sleeved man's vest produced by the company Capper and Waters, was one of the machine-knitted submissions in the Great Exhibition. Hand-knitted vests date back to the 17th century and frame-knitted versions became available in the late 18th century. Power operated knitting machines greatly increased production, allowing for a wider variety of garments at cheaper prices.

Design & Designing
The advancement in knitting design modelled by this knitwear manufacturer is the narrowing of the sleeve from elbow to wrist. Normally sleeves were worked as tubes of the same diameter from shoulder to wrist. The innovation offered here would prevent the bunching of the vest under the sleeve.

Historical Associations
Knitwear was a booming British industry and an important representation at the Great Exhibition in 1851. In all media, one of the great strengths of the Exhibition was its liberal attitude to both machine and hand-made objects. Each method had its advantages and beauties. The Juries reporting on the Exhibition considered machine knitting particularly significant. They were aware of its economic importance and very concerned that Britain keep pace with technological advancement.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleTHE SOTTANELLO
Materials and techniques
Machine-knitted cotton, woven wool, mother of pearl, hand-stitched
Brief description
Vest 'THE SOTTANELLO' of knitted cotton, made by Capper & Waters, London, 1851
Physical description
Vest for a man of cream machine-knitted cotton. Hip length, waisted, and with a high neck and long sleeves. The fastening is double-breasted and reinforced on the right side with a hand-stitched woven wool band. With a cotton placket and small mother of pearl buttons. The wrap-over is held in place on the left side with a similar button at neck and hem. The sleeves are slightly open at the wrists and also fasten with a button.
Dimensions
  • Height: 72cm (maximum)
  • With sleeves stretched out width: 130cm (maximum)
  • Waist width: 25in
Dimensions checked: Measured; 19/01/1999 by sf
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'L' (Trade-mark knitted into the right hip)
  • AP 1292 (Inscribed on a parchment label)
  • 'THE SOTTANELLO, / registered by Capper & Waters, / 26 Regent Street, LONDON. / An improvement in under-garments (woven in Stocking / looms) suited to the personal form, and especially to / the action of the elbow.' (Label attached to the sleeve)
Gallery label
  • This long-sleeved man's vest was one of the submissions in London's Great Exhibition of 1851. It demonstrated the new technology of machine-knitting, which greatly increased production and allowed for a wider variety of garments at cheaper prices. The Juries reporting on the Exhibition considered machine knitting particularly significant. They were aware of its economic importance and were concerned that Britain keep pace with technological advancement. (2013-2015)
  • Machine-knitted to shape Capper and Waters were shirt makers in London's Regent Street. They submitted this machine-knitted man's undershirt, or vest, for display at the Great Exhibition in 1851. The sleeves, which are a key feature of the undershirt, taper from elbow to the cuff following the natural shape of the arm. They demonstrate new machine knitting technologies which created more form-fitting garments. Undershirt, 'Sottanello' Capper & Waters Britain, London, about 1851 Machine-knitted wool V&A: T.54-1959 (16/04/2016-12/03/2017)
  • British Galleries: KNITTED UNDERWEAR
    Seven knitwear manufacturers displayed underwear at the Exhibition. Such undergarments replaced traditional woven linen and cotton. These examples show advances in design such as the shaping of women's underwear to fit the female figure or the narrowing of sleeves to prevent gathering underneath clothes.(27/03/2003)
Object history
Made by Cappers & Waters, London.
Transferred from the Bethnal Green Museum (now Museum of Childhood) to the V&A.
RF FILE 58/162.
Summary
Object Type
This long sleeved man's vest produced by the company Capper and Waters, was one of the machine-knitted submissions in the Great Exhibition. Hand-knitted vests date back to the 17th century and frame-knitted versions became available in the late 18th century. Power operated knitting machines greatly increased production, allowing for a wider variety of garments at cheaper prices.

Design & Designing
The advancement in knitting design modelled by this knitwear manufacturer is the narrowing of the sleeve from elbow to wrist. Normally sleeves were worked as tubes of the same diameter from shoulder to wrist. The innovation offered here would prevent the bunching of the vest under the sleeve.

Historical Associations
Knitwear was a booming British industry and an important representation at the Great Exhibition in 1851. In all media, one of the great strengths of the Exhibition was its liberal attitude to both machine and hand-made objects. Each method had its advantages and beauties. The Juries reporting on the Exhibition considered machine knitting particularly significant. They were aware of its economic importance and very concerned that Britain keep pace with technological advancement.
Other number
AP.129:2 - Previous number
Collection
Accession number
T.54-1959

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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