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Woven silk

Woven silk

  • Place of origin:

    France (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1705-1720 (made)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Woven and brocaded silk and satin, metal threads including silver filé, silver frisé, gold filé and gold frisé

  • Museum number:

    T.442-1976

  • Gallery location:

    British Galleries, room 54b, case 2

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Object Type
This length of woven silk was intended for clothing. It might have been chosen for a woman's gown or a man's waistcoat or nightgown, worn informally at home. The complexity of its woven structure would have made it expensive. Its bold pattern and distinctive colouring date it to a fairly brief period around 1700 when such a combination was highly fashionable.

Places
Dress silks from France began to dominate fashionable taste across Europe from the 1660s. The Minister of Finance, Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619-1683), regulated the French textile industry to reduce the variety and improve the quality in each regional weaving centre. This was intended to help the centres compete against foreign imports, and to prevent their competing against each other. Lyon was the centre for the most complex and luxurious of the patterned silks. This example was probably woven there.

Design & Designing
In the late 17th and early 18th centuries the increasing import trade and other contacts between Asia and Europe greatly influenced the design of fashionable silks such as this. As well as the textiles themselves in clear, bright colours, other goods such as porcelain and lacquer lent shapes and motifs to the silk designers' repertoire. Books on natural history were a source for illustrations of unfamiliar flowers and fruit, fish, birds and other creatures.

Physical description

Woven silk of blue satin ground almost entirely covered with metal thread with a design of patterned scrolls and bulbous exotic fruit. Two shades of pink, green, blue, yellow and purple are also used for details in the design. Tissue (lampas) with blue silk ground warp and white silk binding warp, which binds the pattern in 3/1 twill. Blue silk ground weft and one green pattern weft. The other colours are brocaded. The selvage has eight cords.

Place of Origin

France (made)

Date

ca. 1705-1720 (made)

Materials and Techniques

Woven and brocaded silk and satin, metal threads including silver filé, silver frisé, gold filé and gold frisé

Dimensions

Height: 111 cm, Width: 53 cm, Length: 111.8 cm, Length: 44 in, Length: 21.8 in repeat, Width: 10.3 in repeat, Width: 2 in between repeat

Object history note

Woven in France

Descriptive line

Woven silk, French, ca. 1705-1720

Labels and date

British Galleries:
FOUR DRESS SILKS

By the early 18th century, the design and quality of English silks rivalled French imports. However, there was still a considerable market for luxurious silks woven in France among wealthy English customers. While the cut of clothes changed slowly, colours and designs of fabrics changed constantly. [27/03/2003]

Categories

Textiles

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O78861
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