Cravat

Object Type
The neckcloth was an essential part of a Victorian gentleman's dress. Like the word 'cravat', 'neckcloth' was a general term for any kind of neckwear swathed round the neck, as distinct from a collar. The term continued to be used until about the middle of the 19th century.

Materials & Making
Some neckcloths, such as this one, were large squares of printed cotton. They were often very colourful. The decoration was usually concentrated around the edges of the square although some neckcloths had discreet all-over designs. Sporting themes of horses, dogs and hunting were popular. These prints were very fine and the motifs very small. Other neckcloths consisted simply of woven or printed checks or stripes on a white ground, much like a man's handkerchief of today.

Ownership & Use
Large square neckcloths were folded in half diagonally, folded again, and then fastened around the neck. They were then precisely tied in the desired knot and the ends tweaked either to cover or to reveal the shirt front. By the late 19th century brightly coloured neckcloths were considered too flamboyant for fashionable dress and were acceptable only at a sporting event or when out of town. In May 1895 the Tailor and Cutter made the following remarks about fashions in striking ties:

'The tendency still appears to be in the direction of bright and strong colours and designs. The very latest in foulards is a colour called New Petunia. It is very suitable for boating race meetings and similar outdoor dress.'