Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
British Galleries, Room 118; The Wolfson Gallery

Shoe Buckle

1770-1784 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
Shoe buckles first appeared in the 1660s, replacing elaborate shoe ribbons (known as 'roses') to fasten men's shoes. At first plain and utilitarian, shoe buckles became more elaborate as the 18th century progressed.

Materials & Making
Like most silver buckles, this one was cast and chased to produce its decoration. The rectangular shape and cusped design of this shoe buckle are typical of the Neo-classical influence at work on late-18th-century men's clothing.

Ownership & Use
Large shoe buckles and high heels were only part of the exaggerated styles of a certain group of fashionable young men in the 1770s. They also wore very high wigs, tightly cut coats and breeches in pastel shades and too much perfume (according to their critics). Such fashions were considered very effeminate. The term 'macaroni' was coined by young men on the Grand Tour for anything stylish and elegant. As many also adopted this new style of dressing, the expression was applied to them.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver and steel
Brief description
Silver shoe buckle, England, 1770-1784
Physical description
Silver shoe buckle, high-arched, rectangular and with cusped decoration. Steel chape.
Dimensions
  • Height: 5.8cm
  • Width: 7.6cm
Dimensions checked: Registered Description; 07/11/1999 by JD
Marks and inscriptions
Lion passant and 'IB'
Gallery label
British Galleries: The decorative effect of this silver buckle imitates that of cut steel. The shape of the buckle suggests that it may have been used on a shoe with a high heel, as worn by 'macaronis' or fops of the 1770s.(27/03/2003)
Object history
Made in England
Summary
Object Type
Shoe buckles first appeared in the 1660s, replacing elaborate shoe ribbons (known as 'roses') to fasten men's shoes. At first plain and utilitarian, shoe buckles became more elaborate as the 18th century progressed.

Materials & Making
Like most silver buckles, this one was cast and chased to produce its decoration. The rectangular shape and cusped design of this shoe buckle are typical of the Neo-classical influence at work on late-18th-century men's clothing.

Ownership & Use
Large shoe buckles and high heels were only part of the exaggerated styles of a certain group of fashionable young men in the 1770s. They also wore very high wigs, tightly cut coats and breeches in pastel shades and too much perfume (according to their critics). Such fashions were considered very effeminate. The term 'macaroni' was coined by young men on the Grand Tour for anything stylish and elegant. As many also adopted this new style of dressing, the expression was applied to them.
Collection
Accession number
T.319-1982

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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