Dress Fabric thumbnail 1
Dress Fabric thumbnail 2
+1
images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
British Galleries, Room 52b

This object consists of 3 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Dress Fabric

1724-1725 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
This fabric is a brocaded silk and was intended for ladies' gowns. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively.

Design & Designing
The type of pattern repeat in this silk was known as a point repeat, in which the pattern appeared in mirror image to either side of a central axis. It gave quite a formal effect to the pattern, in which balance was very important, but the overall effect could be lightened with delicate drawing of the individual motifs. Here the leaf sprigs are overlaid as if built up in a natural arrangement of real plant life.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Woven Silk
  • Dress Fabric
  • Dress Fabric
Materials and techniques
Brocaded silk
Brief description
Three dress fabrics of brocaded silk, Spitalfields, London, 1724-1725
Physical description
Three pieces of brocaded silk, from a dress, with a floral pattern on a white ground with stems and leaves in green and flowers in coloured silks.

Brocaded gros de tours with a binding warp taken from the ground. The pattern is bound in 3/1 twill. Warp count is approximately 192 threads to the inch.
Cords in design 192/4 x 10 = approx. 480
Selvages is 0.375 inch white tabby with four green stripes and one outer cord.

Plain weave ground in white silk, with supplementary weft of white silk. Brocaded in 6 colours, bound in twill.
Selvedges - green stripes made by single warp threads.

Brocaded gros de tours with a binding warp taken from the ground. The patten is bound in 3-1 twill.
Width of repeat (point) 10 inches, découpure 4.
Length of repeat 22.75 inches.
Dimensions
  • Repeat length: 58cm
  • Repeat length: 22.75in
  • Repeat width: 10in
  • Repeat width: 120in
Gallery label
British Galleries: The design of this silk has a 'point' or mirror repeat typical of the 1720s. The formal, balanced effect was influenced by French design, but the airy pattern here, on a clear white ground, shows the delicate and naturalistic style Spitalfields designers achieved using such well observed motifs as uncurling fern fronds.(27/03/2003)
Summary
Object Type
This fabric is a brocaded silk and was intended for ladies' gowns. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively.

Design & Designing
The type of pattern repeat in this silk was known as a point repeat, in which the pattern appeared in mirror image to either side of a central axis. It gave quite a formal effect to the pattern, in which balance was very important, but the overall effect could be lightened with delicate drawing of the individual motifs. Here the leaf sprigs are overlaid as if built up in a natural arrangement of real plant life.
Collection
Accession number
T.18 to B-1969

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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