Collar thumbnail 1
Not on display

Collar

ca. 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Detachable collars and cuffs were popular because they added colour and decoration to the plainest of outfits. They were frequently used by the embroiderers of the Glasgow School of Art and existing photographs show the most famous exponents, Jessie Newbery and Anne Macbeth, dressed in examples of their own work.

This collar and belt (see also museum no. Circ.190-1953) are meticulously made. The collar fastens with a hand-made drawstring looped through an embroidered border at the neck edge. The cord passes through specially worked detached eyelet holes, finished off with glass beads. Similarly, the belt fastens with four metal-set glass bead fasteners (one missing). Newbery used Pearsall's Mallard Floss silks in her work.

Both items show a characteristic pattern of 'Glasgow' roses. However, the shape of the collar is evolved from Renaissance design. Jessie Newbery was greatly interested in the decoration of this period and her own wedding dress, which she designed in 1889, was based on a St Ursula's dress in Carpaccio's painting (Accademia, Venice). Newbery believed design to be the most important element in her work. Despite being highly stylised, her patterns are based on her lifelong interest in botany. Each element was reduced to a geometrical, almost abstract shorthand which helped evolved the Glasgow style.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk ground, with appliqué of silk, embroidered in silk threads in satin stitch and couching, with glass bead and needle lace trimmings
Brief description
Embroidered collar, designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, Glasgow, ca. 1900
Physical description
Collar embroidered with a design of stylised 'Glasgow roses' in pink, green, and ivory
Dimensions
  • Height: 32.4cm
  • Width: 71.1cm
Dimensions checked: Measured; 22/01/1999 by sf
Style
Gallery label
(27/03/2003)
British Galleries:
The decoration of artistic clothing provided an ideal opportunity for students of embroidery at the Glasgow School of Art. The shape of this collar was influenced by Renaissance examples but the design was radical and modern. The rose and leaf motifs are reduced to the geometrical, almost abstract, shorthand of the Glasgow style.
Credit line
Bequeathed by Mrs R.A. Walter
Object history
Designed and made in Glasgow by Jessie Newbery (born in Paisley, Renfrewshire, 1864, died in Dorset, 1948).

The acquisition paperwork (Registered File: MA/1/F547) explains that the embroidered collar was acquired following its loan for display in the exhibition Victorian and Edwardian Decorative Arts in 1952-3.

Summary
Detachable collars and cuffs were popular because they added colour and decoration to the plainest of outfits. They were frequently used by the embroiderers of the Glasgow School of Art and existing photographs show the most famous exponents, Jessie Newbery and Anne Macbeth, dressed in examples of their own work.

This collar and belt (see also museum no. Circ.190-1953) are meticulously made. The collar fastens with a hand-made drawstring looped through an embroidered border at the neck edge. The cord passes through specially worked detached eyelet holes, finished off with glass beads. Similarly, the belt fastens with four metal-set glass bead fasteners (one missing). Newbery used Pearsall's Mallard Floss silks in her work.

Both items show a characteristic pattern of 'Glasgow' roses. However, the shape of the collar is evolved from Renaissance design. Jessie Newbery was greatly interested in the decoration of this period and her own wedding dress, which she designed in 1889, was based on a St Ursula's dress in Carpaccio's painting (Accademia, Venice). Newbery believed design to be the most important element in her work. Despite being highly stylised, her patterns are based on her lifelong interest in botany. Each element was reduced to a geometrical, almost abstract shorthand which helped evolved the Glasgow style.
Associated object
CIRC.190-1953 (Ensemble)
Bibliographic references
  • Greenhalgh, Paul (Ed.), Art Nouveau: 1890-1914 . London: V&A Publications, 2000
  • Karen Livingstone and Linda Parry, eds., International Arts & Crafts (V&A: V&A Publications, 2005), p.75.
  • Glasgow girls: women in art and design, 1880-1920, exh. cat., Glasgow Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow 1990 V&A departmental accession folders note that the collar and belt (CIRC.189-1953 and CIRC.190-1953) were published within this exhibition catalogue but were not exhibited.
  • Exhibition of Victorian & Edwardian Decorative Arts; Catalogue, London, H.M. Stationery Office, 1952
Collection
Accession number
CIRC.189-1953

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Record createdMarch 27, 2003
Record URL
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