Shawl

Object Type
Kashmir shawls had been items of fashionable dress in Europe since the late 18th century, and had reached the peak of their popularity there during the first half of the 19th century. By the time this shawl was exhibited at the Great Exhibition in 1851, the designs had become overblown and elaborate, and the shawls themselves very long. They had first become noted as fashionable items of male dress at the court of the Emperor Akbar (ruled 1555-1605).

Materials & Making
Kashmir shawls are made of the soft under-hair of the Himalayan goat, Capra hircus laniger, known as pashmina, from the Persian pashm, meaning 'wool'. An even finer variety of shawl is traditionally woven from the extremely fine and soft hair of the Tibetan antelope, Pantholops hodgsoni, or chiru, called shahtoosh. Poaching of chiru in recent years has led to shahtoosh shawls being made illegal. The finest pashmina shawls have designs woven on the loom, although many examples from the 1830s onwards duplicated these woven designs in embroidery, as this was easier and quicker to manufacture.

Trading
The trade in Kashmir shawls to Europe started around the 1770s, and was well established by about 1800. Leaders of fashion such as the Empress Josephine in France and Emma Hamilton in Britain owned large collections of shawls, which went very well with the loose-fitting 'Empire' fashions of the time. European merchants soon established themselves in the main centres, especially Srinagar in Kashmir, and set about persuading the weavers to make shawls that would conform to the tastes of their respective countries.